An Amazing Day

Wednesday, March 9, 2022

I started my normal looking day by searching for coffee from an, as yet undiscovered, cafe. However, the one I planned to check out had no espresso(!), so I walked a longer distance to one of my favorite cafes, R&E Specialty Coffee, and enjoyed my frappe!

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I traveled through the most enjoyable Paseo Bravo park and snapped photos of some of my favorite sights.

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Now on to my next task – buy a bottle of red wine to enjoy while watching the Seattle Symphony Concert tonight. Finding good wine in Mexico – that doesn’t cost an arm and a leg – has been difficult for me. I crisscrossed the historic center with little luck.  Along the way I found some graffiti that looked like it might have come after the display of state police that I saw yesterday in front of the government offices.

As I was snapping the last shot – at the corner of Calle 5 Sur and Avenida 5 Poniente – a woman told me that I should not publish that photo. She was sitting on a step next to a man that appeared to be her husband. I asked, “why not, don’t you believe in what they are saying?” She told me that she did, but that once you cross a line to destruction of property it becomes wrong. She said she had seen some of them carrying weapons yesterday and that was when she felt it wasn’t protesting anymore. She eventually offered me a seat on the step as I continued to listen and ask questions. The man explained how the current government has changed politics in Mexico for the good. He has quit giving entitlements to the rich and used that money to provide services for the “humble” people. He saw this protest as casting doubt on the current government and therefore unsupportable. We talked for about an hour and as I was leaving they invited me to stay in their humble, but safe, home. We exchanged phone numbers, hugs and good wishes.

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March 12th Note: I walked by the orange wall (above) and it had already been repainted.

March 14th Note: I was in touch with the couple that I spoke with on the steps and we made plans to meet for coffee. Today at 1 pm José, but not Mari, met me outside the cafe. He was nervous at first and walked me to the Zocalo because it was more public. We talked for over an hour. Soon he described, in a sincere and hopeful manner, how he had fallen in love with me at first sight – it had never happened to him before. After a while, he also let me know his views about sex, including the phrase “there is no such thing as a frigid woman, only a stupid man”. He was disappointed, but not deterred, to learn that I was leaving in a few days, or that I had had relationships with women. I wish I could say that I was tempted – wouldn’t that be a story! – but, unfortunately, I was not.

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After the heartwarming exchange with the couple on the steps I felt I needed a pause before continuing my hunt for wine. In the next block I stopped in for some tasty mezcal (and some agua mineral) served in the tranquil and delightful atmosphere of the Hotel Marqués del Angel.

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Fully revived and still full of wonder, I continued my search for wine. Finally, after walking almost four miles today, I gave up and turned for home. About a block from home I noticed that the church I thought was neglected had open doors. The first time I walked by I thought it had been abandoned, so I jumped at the chance to go inside. I was greeted by a man dressed informally in black who offered me the obligatory hand sanitizer. I wandered, respectfully, around the large room. I love the peaceful feeling I have in Puebla’s churches – I feel connected to my religious relatives. Soon the man who welcomed me was at my side acting as a guide. He proudly showed me features and responded to my questions. I dropped what little moneda (coins) I had into the donation box. The loud clank made me think that I was one of the few people visiting tonight.

(Note: this church, Templo de San Felipe Neri La Concordia, is actually very active and takes up a full block, including a primary school, and my favorite Plaza de los Azulejos – check out the last post)

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Now, in the dark, I was ready to go home. On an impulse I stopped at the convenience store, OXXO, and bought a $5 USD bottle of Cabernet Sauvignon – over the counter (it should be good!). I cobbled together my evening meal – sliced sausage, cheese, cucumber, avocado, and some tortillas for a marvelous meal. My night was completed by watching the Seattle Symphony, under the guest direction of Dalia Stasevska, a 38 year old woman born in the Ukraine. The concert started with the Ukrainian national anthem and finished with Dvorak’s Symphony No. 9, from “The New World”. I was in tears with sadness and joy.

I am grateful for the serendipity and grace of this day!