My México Travels

An Amazing Day

Wednesday, March 9, 2022

I started my normal looking day by searching for coffee from an, as yet undiscovered, cafe. However, the one I planned to check out had no espresso(!), so I walked a longer distance to one of my favorite cafes, R&E Specialty Coffee, and enjoyed my frappe!

Frappé Lvnar, with activated charcoal, espresso and chocolate

I traveled through the most enjoyable Paseo Bravo park and snapped photos of some of my favorite sights.

Fuente de Paseo Bravo
Monumento a Fray Toribio de Benavente “Motolinia”

Now on to my next task – buy a bottle of red wine to enjoy while watching the Seattle Symphony Concert tonight. Finding good wine in Mexico – that doesn’t cost an arm and a leg – has been difﬁcult for me. I crisscrossed the historic center with little luck. Along the way I found some grafﬁti that looked like it might have come after the display of state police that I saw yesterday in front of the government offices.

March 8th display of police protecting government building

As I was snapping the last shot – at the corner of Calle 5 Sur and Avenida 5 Poniente – a woman told me that I should not publish that photo. She was sitting on a step next to a man that appeared to be her husband. I asked, “why not, don’t you believe in what they are saying?” She told me that she did, but that once you cross a line to destruction of property it becomes wrong. She said she had seen some of them carrying weapons yesterday and that was when she felt it wasn’t protesting anymore. She eventually offered me a seat on the step as I continued to listen and ask questions. The man explained how the current government has changed politics in Mexico for the good. He has quit giving entitlements to the rich and used that money to provide services for the “humble” people. He saw this protest as casting doubt on the current government and therefore unsupportable. We talked for about an hour and as I was leaving they invited me to stay in their humble, but safe, home. We exchanged phone numbers, hugs and good wishes.

March 12th Note: I walked by the orange wall (above) and it had already been repainted.

March 14th Note: I was in touch with the couple that I spoke with on the steps and we made plans to meet for coffee. Today at 1 pm José, but not Mari, met me outside the cafe. He was nervous at first and walked me to the Zocalo because it was more public. We talked for over an hour. Soon he described, in a sincere and hopeful manner, how he had fallen in love with me at first sight – it had never happened to him before. After a while, he also let me know his views about sex, including the phrase “there is no such thing as a frigid woman, only a stupid man”. He was disappointed, but not deterred, to learn that I was leaving in a few days, or that I had had relationships with women. I wish I could say that I was tempted – wouldn’t that be a story! – but, unfortunately, I was not.

After the heartwarming exchange with the couple on the steps I felt I needed a pause before continuing my hunt for wine. In the next block I stopped in for some tasty mezcal (and some agua mineral) served in the tranquil and delightful atmosphere of the Hotel Marqués del Angel.

Fully revived and still full of wonder, I continued my search for wine. Finally, after walking almost four miles today, I gave up and turned for home. About a block from home I noticed that the church I thought was neglected had open doors. The first time I walked by I thought it had been abandoned, so I jumped at the chance to go inside. I was greeted by a man dressed informally in black who offered me the obligatory hand sanitizer. I wandered, respectfully, around the large room. I love the peaceful feeling I have in Puebla’s churches – I feel connected to my religious relatives. Soon the man who welcomed me was at my side acting as a guide. He proudly showed me features and responded to my questions. I dropped what little moneda (coins) I had into the donation box. The loud clank made me think that I was one of the few people visiting tonight.

(Note: this church, Templo de San Felipe Neri La Concordia, is actually very active and takes up a full block, including a primary school, and my favorite Plaza de los Azulejos – check out the last post)

Now, in the dark, I was ready to go home. On an impulse I stopped at the convenience store, OXXO, and bought a $5 USD bottle of Cabernet Sauvignon – over the counter (it should be good!). I cobbled together my evening meal – sliced sausage, cheese, cucumber, avocado, and some tortillas for a marvelous meal. My night was completed by watching the Seattle Symphony, under the guest direction of Dalia Stasevska, a 38 year old woman born in the Ukraine. The concert started with the Ukrainian national anthem and finished with Dvorak’s Symphony No. 9, from “The New World”. I was in tears with sadness and joy.

I am grateful for the serendipity and grace of this day!

Spanish Institute of Puebla

On January 24th I started my six week intensive language program: four hours of individual instruction and two hours, one-on-one, with a conversation guide. The program also includes two excursions and a daily lunch that fed me through the next morning! The first three weeks I stayed with the same host family I had in 2019. The last three weeks I shared an apartment with my friend, Robin, from San Miguel de Allende. She came for her first experience learning Spanish.

The Institute

This unassuming building has housed the Institute for about 30 years. Before that it was an ex-convent. Because it is an historic building, street signage is not allowed, making it difficult to find. The door under the number #10 is the entrance. Each day I would arrive and press the security button to be let in. My temperature would be taken and I would be offered some antiseptic gel.

During my time at the Institute about 25 people were enrolled in about 15 difference classes. Some chose individual classes and received private instruction. A lot of students are studying for some type of missionary work in Spanish speaking countries. Others, from Europe, are studying to work in their country’s consulate offices in Mexico.

These classes were intense and I was exhausted at the end of each day, while still needing to complete homework. My teachers were extraordinary. They listened to my needs and quickly adapted their lessons. I was asked to articulate why I wanted to learn Spanish and my response focused the methods they used. All my teachers have degrees in Linguistics which allows them to teach from a whole systems approach, where we learn the roles of phrases and words. This approach reinvigorated my love of learning Spanish which was all but destroyed during my five quarters of university level Spanish. Laura, my first teacher, is gifted in how she explained and taught the difficult lessons of “the eight uses of ‘se'”, and the subjunctive mode – all four tenses! My second teacher, Evelyn, believes in teaching Spanish using personal experiences and perspectives in our lessons – it was powerful for me. As she discovered I enjoyed Mexican history, literature, cooking and indigenous cultures, she embellished her lessons accordingly.

My Host Family – Sofia Ibarra

Sofia, my wonderful host (on the left in the photo below), is a joy to be around. I stayed with her in 2019 and was grateful to be back. Her daughter and grandson live with her in a home very close to the Institute. She has been hosting for about five years and has great stories of her guests. She is proud that many return again and again. I enjoyed sitting around the kitchen table eating and talking. She also loves to “ir de paseo” – going for a drive to remarkable places.

My first full day she and her daughter took me to Val’Quirico, a European styled village designed for tourists. I loved the many live music venues. It was crowded with families – not many tourists.

Sophia drove to our second “paseo” and her good friend joined us. I loved traveling with those two! From the back seat there were shouts of “watch out for the speed bump” – and there were lots of them! Sophia was taking us to see the Ahuehuete in Cholula – an ancient tree native to Mexico. In the indigenous language of Náhuatl the name means “an old tree of water”, as it grows where this is a lot of water. This tree is huge! I saw another one outside of Oaxaca which is more celebrated. Sophia had thought she knew right where it was, but that was not the case. Rather than refer to Google Maps, she would spot someone along the street, roll down her window, and say “!Oye!”. She did this about ten times before we actually found the tree – what fun!

On our way home we passed a museum with an interesting display of chairs on their exterior wall, along with a poem. Each chair has a name and a year written on them and the following poem

Don’t stand by my grave and weep . . . 
I am not there . . . 
I am in the wind that caresses you.
I am a diamond shining in the snow.
I am the light of the sun on your face.
I am the rain, I am the wet smell of the earth.
I am the birds that chirp.
I am the stars that blink at night.
Don’t stand by my grave and weep . . . 
I am not there . . . 
I did not die.

Anonymous

Before we left Cholula we had a lovely meal and stopped near the Plaza for a beer and photos with the Christmas tree. Paseos with Sofia are a treat!

My host, Sofia Ibarra, on the left, with her best friend.

Conversation Guide Adventures

Each week we were assigned a different conversation guide. Each day we had two hours together to do as I pleased – in Spanish. We are given a list of local museums, churches, parks, and other interesting things to do in Puebla. Many of the museums were not open due to COVID, but there was still so much to see. I am a fan of the churches, so we visited many of them. Since there are so many, I will cover them in a future post. We also would go to a cafe, drink a limonada and talk. When I didn’t want to wander we watched “Selina, El Serie” in Spanish, with Spanish subtitles. The guides were generally young women, and in, or just graduated, from university. They were very helpful in keeping me alive – they would hold me back as I stepped into an intersection that I thought was safe. They all seemed to be great people and I loved discussing our views of Mexico, the world, and our places in them.

As we wandered the streets of Puebla, I noticed that some of the most beautiful buildings were Universities (see two photos below) – and there are a lot of them! I was told that in Mexico (or was it the state of Puebla?) when a building owner dies with no heirs it is then available, at no cost, to universities and other public entities.

Excursions!

Cholula

Offered once each three-week course, these two excursions are a highlight. The first one, Cholula, was quite popular with nine students participating. Our guide ushered us all into a van and we drove to the Great Pyramid of Cholula, also known as Tlachihualtepetl. The construction of the church on top was started in 1574, even though the Spaniards knew the significance of pyramid underneath. Or, more likely, they built it because of the significance. The pyramid was re-discovered in the early 1930’s and excavations were underway through 1970. No further excavations are allowed due to the risk of harming the church. (I find this an interesting repeating concept in Mexico: pre-hispanic vs. Spanish. ) During the explorations five miles of tunnels were built within the pyramids. These are closed now due to COVID. However, I had a chance to wander through them with my grandson, Sebastian, in 2019. They gave me a strong feeling of claustrophobia, so I was grateful I didn’t do that again. Mexico is very proud of the fact that theirs is the largest pyramid in the world – not in height, but in volume. It has a base of 1,480 ft. by 1,480 ft. and a height of 217 ft. This seems to be a popular destination for families. I appreciate that Mexico’s history co-mingles with daily life.

Our tour guide, in the red hat, walking us around the excavated pyramid grounds.

excavated pyramid with Los Remedios in the background

Teotihuacan and Chapultepec Park in CDMX

The big excursion goes to three places: the Teotihuacan pyramids, the Chapultepec Castle and the National Museum of Anthropology in Mexico City. We left at 7:30 am and returned at 7 pm. Only Robin and I signed up for the tour and we had three guides, plus the driver. The van was quite deluxe with comfy seats, air conditioning, and a large TV. It as a beautiful day and the hot air balloons were in force as we arrived.

The city of Teotihuacan is one of the largest and most architecturally significant Mesoamerican pyramids built in the pre-Columbian Americas. It began as a religious center about 100 BC with its peak in 450 CE. The decline of Teotihuacan has been attributed to lengthy droughts related to climate changed of 535-536. During the 1200’s Teotihuacan was repopulated by migrant tribes, eventually controlled by the Aztecs by 1427. It was here that Cortéz, and his men, were dazzled by the riches which led to it’s demise two years later. The prominence of this city is palpable when you walk through the ruins. Trying to imagine the depth of time represented here is mind boggling.

Monument to the Six Boy Heroes – This legend was my favorite as a primary student. The story I learned talks about how the US Army attacked and killed all the young men in the military school housed in the Chapultepec Castle. The legend states that six boy heroes went to the roof of the castle and, rather than being killed by the US, they jumped from the roof – one of them wrapped in the Mexican flag. These six boy were my heroes – I even wrote a poem that was selected to be read in front of my school. So, though I have read some information, this trip was the first to consistently tell me that the legend has been proven to be false. No, the US did murder all the young men in the military school, but the specific six men going to the roof and jumping off is no longer believed to be true. But . . . the monuments are still beautiful!

The monument to honor Squadron 201: a Mexican fighter group, who called themselves “Aztec Indians” helped liberate the Philippine island of Luzon in the summer of 1945. In 1971 my high school played a concert in this same location. It was great to see it again!

It was a long day with lots of walking. We were disappointed not to be able to go the Chapultepec Castle – it is one of my favorites! Instead we walked around and around the park and ended at the Museum. Robin and I were so tired we sat in the beautiful courtyard. I didn’t even take any photos!

Hot air balloons dotted the sky as we arrived to the pyramids.

The beautiful Erythrina tree was in bloom.

Uri, Giselle, Kathleen, Robin, and Lalo in front of the Squadron 201 Memorial in the Chapultepec Park in Mexico City.

Graduation at Corazon de Brazil

At the end of my six weeks I gathered with other “grads” at a hosted meal at a wonderful Brazilian restaurant. It is quite the spread with an amazing salad bar. The unusual thing is the protein! A series of many different cuts of beef, pig, lamb, and seafood are paraded around the table and you get to say “yes” to which one you want. I knew what was coming, so I only half-loaded my salad plate to take advantage of as many of the traveling protein and I could fit into my stomach. What a treat! In addition, the director of the Institute, Antonio, handed out certificates and personalized gifts!

Antonio at the head of the table with the eager graduates around the table.

Relaxing at the Beach

Transition to San Patricio, or Melaque, on the Pacific Coast of Jalisco

Melaque

On my last night in San Miguel de Allende my friend, Robin, and I checked off another rooftop restaurant – this one called Zumo Rooftop Restaurant. SMA has a long list of rooftop restaurants, as the night sky is filled with beautiful views and this was no exception – and great food!

Since my flight left at 6:15 am, I stayed in a hotel close to the airport which made my travel over a leisurely two days. The first day I took a taxi to the bus station, the UneBus to the Guanajuato Airport (Leon, Silao, Bajío), and another taxi to the hotel. The next day I took the hotel shuttle to the airport, flew to Mexico City, flew to Manzanillo, then took a taxi to my Air BnB in San Patricio. I lucked out with the cab driver as turned out to be a bit of a tour guide. He offered to take me through Cihuatlán where we stopped so I could check out their beautiful white church (Parroquia La Santa Cruz).

Church of the Immaculate Conception (aka Las Monjas) on the left and la Parroquía on the right

La Casa de María

I was fortunate to get into my apartment earlier than check in time. This place has all the requirements for this stay: air conditioning (in the bedroom), Wifi (though any WiFi in this area is weak and inconsistent), a pool, a shaded area with access to The Beach, and this place did not disappoint! It is a small complex of only seven units, is less than two years old, and right next to downtown. This town is historically a fishing village and has about 7,500 residents (2010). The population swells during the winter months as expats from Canada and the US invade for about three months. They usually stay between one and three months and come back year after year.

Weather: I struggle with heat, so I have struggled with how to enjoy this location. The lows run from 68 to 73 (from about midnight to 7:30 am), the highs run from 80 to 85. Doesn’t sound too bad, right? Well, the humidity is about as high as the temperatures and I don’t last more than an hour at a time. That said, when I do put the AC on, I only set it to between 70 and 75. The best is: in the shade, cold drink in hand, noticeable breeze, view of the beach, wet from a swim.

COVID protocol here seems lax and less consistent than San Miguel de Allende – it could be because most everything is outside, or . . . There is no enforcement of masks, no temperature taking, no hand sanitizer dispensing, or shoe disinfecting. My neighbor, who is flying home tomorrow went to get her COVID test to qualify to fly home. She was negative, but her experience left her shaking. What would she have done if she had tested positive? There was a rude man in line in front of her, without a mask, who tested positive and was mad at the world. I feel quite safe – may not be logical, but it is how I feel. I generally stay outdoors (more than six feet from others) or in my unit. I’m not using cloth masks anymore and mask up in crowds and indoors. I brought tests, but not sure if they will detect Omicron.

Covered breezeway between pool and beech access

BEACH

It took me awhile let go of the busyness in my mind, accept that “lazy” is not bad here and now, that being alone is ok, find a nurturing routine, and enjoy the intensity of the warm sun. When I did, the extraordinary beauty of this place found me. I have more photos of the sunrises and sunsets because I tend to retreat to the shaded areas to read during the hottest time of the day. I am not interested in buying things and there are no beautiful buildings, museums, or ruins to see. I’m not interested in day trips, live performance of old rock music, or in seeking out fancy restaurants. I feel lulled by the sound of the waves, nourished by gazing at the sunrises and sunsets, sustained by the endless hours of reading, and refreshed by dips into water. Observing the pelicans flying and diving into the water causes me to smile, observing families playing together tiggers fond memories.

Morning Impressions

I wake up to sounds of roosters, birds and donkey’s!
On sunrise walks I see fishing – mostly recreational fishing (dad’s with kids).
Swimmers, primarily expats, are in the water early, swimming parallel to shore for their safety.
Vendors start setting up their umbrellas, tables and chairs on the beach for rental income

Me getting ready for a morning FaceTime with my sister – I wanted her to see the sunrise

Day Reflections

Local musicians (and a few expats) wander into cafes and restaurants playing a short while for tips.
Large families (mainly Mexicans) haul their coolers and congregate around rented beach umbrellas – laughing, singing, eating, playing soccer, playing music, playing in the waves.
Critter holes and trails tell of the past night’s activity.

Evening Observations

Beaches get more crowded as sunset approaches, with everyone taking advantage of the cooler weather, the breeze, the color, and more
Vendors stroll up and down the beach carrying there wares
Fishermen (not women), look more professional than the early morning ones. They are joined by men in boats, in the water (some with reels, most using hand thrown nets)
Flocks of birds start feeding amongst the fishermen and swimmers. The big ones are pelicans, then there a two more smaller birds mixed in

A 20 second clip of pelicans at sunset

Other Interesting Stuff

I was surprised, and delighted, to see this Christmas tree set up in a school yard, knowing that isn’t as easy to do in the US.
I am stunned by the beautiful flowers here and I have chosen a few photos of them to share
Food & Drink could be a longer topic, but I’ll give you the short version here. I have only gone out for one meal, as I enjoy eating from the tremendous array of fresh fruits and veggies available here. However, I love going out for coffee in the morning. One of my favorite places, La Taza Negra, makes great smoothies as well. One thing I love, is that their ice cubes are made out of coffee! The next three shots are of one of my favorite restaurants, called El Dorado. I walk up from the beach with my sandy feet and sit at linen covered table with a view of the sunset. The last time I was there a group of expats were dancing, and teaching, latin dances. They do this every Wednesday evening – what fun!
The last two shots don’t illustrate a concept as well as I had hoped. I usually stay close to home along the beach where the town has accommodated the influx of tourist needs with knick-knack shops, burger & pizza joints, and the like. One day I wandered just a couple blocks off the tourist track and found a vibrant local commercial area which seemed to cater more to the local population. My favorite was a 4 foot by 4 foot grill filled with chicken in a pungent and delicious smelling sauce.

!Feliz Navidad!

Since returning from San Luis Potosí, I have been enjoying watching San Miguel de Allende get dressed up for Christmas! Of course the best was to do that is to walk around at night. And, no matter where you go, it is the Parroquía that draws your attention.

In the center of town you see the many interesting decorations, generally created by civic groups and include a religious theme. When I was in Mexico from 1958 to 1962 I did not see a lot of Christmas trees, but that has changed now.

The malls have a little different style . . . I had a fun time finding my way to the Plaza de Luciérgana using the local buses – no printed schedules or routes, no accurate online information. But it was worth the adventure and effort to get here. The movie theatre is here, too, and I have been able to see West Side Story (Amore Sin Barreras, in Spanish, meaning “love without barriers”), and Encanto, in Spanish!

The businesses have a beautiful range of decorating. Poinsettia’s (Noche buena) and piñatas seem to be central to the decorating theme.

Though not as prolific as I remember in Bellingham, private homes still contribute their creativity.

Christmas Eve (Noche Buena)

AM – I woke up to temperatures in the high 30’s, but by 3 pm it was 81 degrees!. I was the only one in sandals and legs showing – actually, I did see a teenager in Ughs and short-shorts. I made a trip to closest all purpose grocery store: The City Market. It is the newest and fanciest market I have every seen. It appears to have been created to draw in the local expats; however, I see lots of locals shopping there, too. On Christmas Eve it was crowded, with lots of families. The standard US Christmas carols were pumping through the store speakers. One of my favorite sections is the Chocolatería – a whole section for all things chocolate! The last time I was here I sat at the Bar Do Mar and ordered a couple of tapas: shrimp and salad. Before I ordered they brought me a glass of champagne!

PM – My friend Robin and I headed out at 6:15 to witness the Posada in the center of town. It turned out to be very special. I love the re-enactment of the journey Mary and Joseph took up to the night Jesus was born. I loved it as a kid and it seems like a much more meaningful myth than sitting on Santa’s lap and taking pictures with him. We approached the Parroquia around sunset when it and the sky was glowing! When we arrived the three wise guys were hanging around posing for photos. For about an hour families hung around the Jardín and the plaza. The mood was relaxed and expectant. Finally Joseph, his pregnant wife, Mary, and an angel climbed into the back of a decorated truck to begin the simulation of that night long ago hoping to find lodging for the night. The truck drove around the plaza and many people followed, including singers and a band (with an upright bass player walking his bass around the block). Finally, after being turned away many times, Joseph and Mary found the manger in the middle of the plaza. The priest is now front and center and there is clapping and more singing – joyful now, as the manger will house them for the night. Ultimately the baby is born and placed into his cradle in the manger. It was a very sweet and touching re-enactment.

Quick Trip to San Luis Potosí

Two hours and 10 minutes north of San Miguel de Allende is the city of San Luis Potosí, in the state of the same name.

I spent 18 days in the city of San Luis Potosí (in the apartment on the upper left), in the state of San Luis Potosí (I keep getting confused). My friend Robin was able to spend 10 of those days with me. With an elevation of 6,115 feet, and no heat, I was wearing my silk long johns under my clothes. In addition, I was studying for my final in my Spanish 301 class at WWU. I gratefully celebrated when it was done (upper right photo). The apartment was located very near the historic center of town, so it was difficult to imagine that about 1 million people live in this city! It is strategically located on historic trade routes and train routes to the US border which historically brought lots of military action. Gold, and then silver, was discovered in the area which made it a rich asset for the Spanish. Now it serves as the main industrial center of central Mexico. People in the street look like busy working people; dressed in pants, and coats. It felt a long ways away from the more turisty San Miguel de Allende and I did not see many English speaking people. My attempts to communicate were not as graciously received as in other areas. For the most part, I appreciated being ignored so I could wander without being encouraged to buy things.

This seems like a long post, so I have detailed the sections below in case you want to skip down to something interesting – like Pretty Buildings (I love that section, but it seems like there are so many). I put it at the end, just in case it isn’t everyone’s favorite.

Sections	Description
Centro	Sites of the historic center of town
Protest	An example of a local protest
Fancy	What the fancy side of town looks like
Eating	Our encounters eating and drinking
Night	How different it looks at night
Shopping	Does shopping look different here?
Bling	SLP loves their bling!
Parks	I loved the number and variety of parks!
Xmas	It’s beginning to look a lot like Christmas
Pretty Buildings	I always love the pretty buildings!

Centro

Usually the historic center of town is part I like the best. It has the old buildings and churches, usually a market or two. Because of it’s integrity, authenticity and historically significant, SLP was established as a UNESCO city in 2018. This distinction tends to help maintain and support the beauty of the downtown, as witnessed by the photos below.

Plaza Fundadores before the Christmas tree

Protest

I was struck by the sight below calling for “not one more assassination”. It felt powerful to me. Whether it is gender violence or deadbeat dads, Women’s groups have long been protesting in this square across from the government building. Pictures and detailed charges against deadbeat dads hung around the square are intended to publicly humiliate them. Posters hung around called for government support. Tents are set up around the square and it seemed that protesters were manning them and hosting meetings.

SUTSGE (Single Union Workers in the Service of the State Government) Present

Fancy

Just outside of the centro, SLP seemed more in need of maintenance that most cities I have visited. So I was surprised when I happened upon the upscale part of town. It was modern with wide sidewalks and streets. It was home to many universities and medical centers, upscale cafe’s and restaurants – even a few multi-storied buildings. I loved the quirky mix of styles. It seemed to be populated primarily by young students and professionals.

Eating

Robin and I met over the search for good coffee. We continued the search with not a lo of success (not the first two photos of cafe that had a 4.7 rating on Google. The sweets were great, but not the coffee. We were very intrigued that all the waiters sported adorable Christmas headgear! We had a lot more luck when it came to drinking establishments! Our favorite was the Mescalería. Beautiful, mellow atmosphere, great service – yum! We also able to find a sports bar showing the Seahawks game – I loved seeing a fan in the audience! The last photo shows at a great location with a beautiful view. Unfortunately the food and drinks were not that good. We didn’t mind!

Night

For safety reasons I don’t tend to be out when it’s dark. However, I love how the city looks so beautiful and many parts of life awaken. Blow are a few examples.

Shopping

Shopping felt different that SMA (or home). Sure, the weather encourages much of the shopping to take place outdoors. I wen to la Bodega Aurora, for some food shopping. In other towns this is a higher end grocery store chain than the family run ones. Inside it seemed like a costco-type store with families loading up their carts. My cart had about 5 things in it, but when I saw that the lines were huge I put them all back. Outside there was a line to get in (first photo)! In the second photo I was surprised at what I considered silly marketing strategies.

Bling

Can you imagine purchasing and wearing a bling-bling necklace or crown? It has been a while since I have wanted to. But here the bling is every where! I have to admit, the quinceañera dresses fascinated me – I’m sure I would have been all in back in the day. However, there were so many of those dress shops that it felt like they were following us!

Parks

I enjoy searching out parks in the city and then create a walking tour to experience them. There were many more parks than these, but these were my favorites. The first four are beautiful neighborhood parks that I found great delight in sitting in, listening to the sounds, and watching how much fun people were having. The last two were unique. Plaza Milenio was created to separate the historic center from the modern section of town. I loved the variety of art pieces incorporated into the park. The last one is my favorite! It is 13 blocks long, constructed between two streets and over an old aqueduct. It honors the many workers who constructed the aqueduct which was extremely important at the time. It has a beautiful minor Basilica at one end,

San Francisco
Jardín Alameda
Jardín de Tequisquiapan
Jardín de San Miguelito
Plaza Milenio
Calzada de Guadalupe

Xmas

I love seeing how the city readies for Christmas! I first saw the pick up truck with the colorful piñatas in the back, but did not know where they were heading. Then I happened upon the beginning construction of the Christmas tree in the central square – it seemed surprising how tall it would be. I was impressed with how many workers and equipment they had for the job!. Later on I saw the tree growing. I was impresses with how beautiful the glittery gold sections of the tree were, which you can’t really see in the photos. Then I got to see the colorful piñatas on display. I love it! However, it makes the Christmas Tree in the mall look a bit pathetic.

Pretty Buildings

I keep thinking that the next city won’t have near the pretty buildings that have already seen. Or maybe I will get over my enjoyment of them. But, no, not yet!

Next . . .

After San Luis Potosí I am heading back to San Miguel de Allende for Christmas and New Years Eve. We’ll see captures me during that time.

Real de Catorce, San Luis Potosí

San Luis Potosí to Matehuala (2.5 hrs. by bus) to Real de Catorce (1.25 hrs. by taxi)

Real de Catorce is known for being one of the wealthiest silver towns during the 1800’s, then it went bust in early 1900, as a ceremonial grounds for the native populations, and for the peyote that grows in the area. It sits at an elevation of 8,950 feet, and, in November, temperatures at night are in the 30’s and during the day in the 50’s. It has been the scene for some movies because it still can be made to look like “old Mexico”.

Brad Pitt coming out of the Tunel de Ogarrio during the filming of “The Mexican”

We traveled a long way, noticing the elevation gain, and the changing landscape. The hour-long taxi drive from Matehuala to Real de Catorce was exciting. He sped over the cobblestone road and everything shook! Then we came to the 7,415 foot long Tunel de Ogarrio! It was cut into the rock mountain during the silver mining days. There is no reinforcement or buttresses anywhere.

Ex Hacienda Dolores Trompeta sits on the Matehuala side of the tunel

Our taxi driver took us to the Hotel Rincón Mágico (magic corner) where we had booked our stay online. We picked this hotel because of the views and were not disappointed! We arrived on a beautiful day, the sun was radiant and the skies clear! My room had a fireplace, as advertised, but nothing provided to make a fire. There was no other heat, but the bed was warm and toasty!

We drove into town in the taxi, and this wonderful gentleman, Francisco, was guiding both drivers and walkers in a busy intersection with such ease and grace. Later we asked him where to get a beer. He directed us to a store (less expensive, he explained) where we grabbed our favorite can, sat in the sun and watched him work. He told the history of the town, the best adventures, the best hotels and restaurants. He asked our names and got all gushy at my name (Catalina) because that’s his wife’s name.

It was Thanksgiving! So we went to the “best restaurant in town” – so said Francisco – La Mesón de la Abundancia. We enjoyed our pizza and drinks: mezcal and sangría. We were connecting with family and friends, via text, all day long. We acknowledged how fortunate we felt having loving friends and family AND visiting such an amazing town.

This figure this is really just a reconnaissance trip for us. I am in San Luis Potosí for 18 days before going back to San Miguel de Allende for Christmas and New Years. My friend, Robin, who lives in San Miguel de Allende, was willing to join me for 10 day in SLP. We decided to scope out Real de Catorce because it seemed interesting and different. We originally wanted to take some excursions, she on horseback, and me riding on top of a willey. We wanted to check out the Puebla Fantasma (ghost town) that you can see up on the hill. There are some other journeys that look interesting: the Sacred Mountains of Wirikuta (the end of a Huihol pilgrimage from the Pacific Coast), an old deserted miner hacienda, an abandoned train station, and the sacred desert where many types of cactus grow, including the ceremonial peyote.

We had a great time wandering around the streets of the town. The elevation found us huffing and puffing, but the air was fresh and clean. Our second day was cloudy and cold, with the threat of rain always near. As it came time for our camioneta (van) ride home the fog descended and we lost sight of the surrounding hills. Our camioneta took us into Matehuala, but not to the bus station. So we hailed a cab from the street who got us to the station in time for our bus. Two plus hours on the bus and we made it to SLP. The last leg was a taxi ride to our Air BnB. We were bushed and this cab driver had a hard time understanding me. I felt no grace from him as he chastised me for not giving the correct information (which I already had given him). The streets of SLP were crowded with cars and lots of people milling around. It was loud and hopping! When we got home , before crashing, we had a scotch and watched the 2001 movie “The Mexican”, starring Brad Pitt and Julia Roberts. It was filmed in Read de Catorce!.

Back in SMA

My Home: Chonitos #5

Olga is my hostess and lives at Casa Dorotea with her son, who goes to university. In addition there are three other “guests” besides me. We each have single rooms and two of us share a bathroom. We all share the kitchen, dining room, living room, patio and roof patio. Olga has beautiful taste and uses a lot of color and plants to decorate the home. I enjoy the home and the people in it. After an 18 day trip to San Luis Potosí I will be back here through new year’s day!

Holloween and Día de los Muertos

Arriving just before Día de los Muertos was a lovely wake up call to the Mexican culture! They do like there celebrations! And this one is so colorful and engages all ages. Both families and businesses invest a lot of time and energy in preparing. The amount of face painting, and the expert level of results is mind blowing. The ofrendas displayed around the plaza in the center of town were fascinating: one with a full sized Harley Davidson, one to COVID-19, one with many generations of family members, one for the forgotten, one prepared by retired service men in honor of those who have died in the armed confrontations of the past.

El Charco del Ingenio

Cactus heart — El Charco del Ingenio presents a heart shaped cactus!

The botanical gardens in San Miguel de Allende requires a steep hike up, so Robin and I took a cab and arrived just as they were opening at 9 am. We paid our $50 MXP (roughly $2.50 USD) entrance fee and headed to the cafe for our morning coffee. The first thing we noticed was the quiet and the smell of clean air! We had a map, but chose to wander about on the various paths, both marked and unmarked, and both listed on the map and not listed on the map. The calm was delicious and the sights remarkable. We didn’t see as many “plants”, but that could be because we are heading into winter!. We did see cactus and spiders! After we had our fill we walked carefully down and back into town. A very satisfying day!

San Miguel de Allende Jazz & Blues Festival

In it’s 27th year, this festival was one of reasons I initially came to SMA in the fall. I thoroughly enjoyed it two years ago and was grateful to see it survived COVID! There were four concerts over four days: two in the patio of the SMA library and two at the Cuña de Tierra winery about 20 miles out of town. The first night was blues, the second was music of Chet Baker, Frank Sinatra & Louis Armstrong, the third was Funk (the 60’s and 70’s kind), the final concert was renditions of The Beetles music. The musicianship was excellent, the locations delightful, and it filled a sweet spot for me. The last two at the winery included food and wine, which added to the experience. I love how people get to “know” each other. Three dogs were wandering around looking for handouts, and, unlike what I expected, people were feeding and petting them. One ran off with the chicken from my paella! A special experience developed as a group of three outgoing young women in the front courageously engaged the audience. First they shared a bottle of wine with everyone within reach. Then they embarked on getting us all to join them on the dance floor. The sweetest thing was when they supported an older woman with a cane. The young woman gently caressed her so that she could dance without fear of falling. They stayed on the dance floor for many more songs than I did and it was endearing to see how much both of them were enjoying themselves.

I got a kick out of the interplay between the driver of the large bus we took to the vineyard and the roads in the vineyards! As you can see in the photos, the large bus had difficulty navigating the many turns on dirt roads to get to the tasting center. Many times he stopped the bus and said he couldn’t do it. But all we had to do is chant “Sí, se puede” and he would try again. His bus wobbled back and forth and was scratched – but he returned the next day to do it all again!

Epilogue

How am I adjusting?

How are any of us adjusting? This is a whole new world for many of us. I was delighted to actually see my sister and nephew with my eyes, even if I could not hug them. It felt strange that she put latex gloves on to accept my gifts. I really enjoy “having coffee” every morning with Cohousers, using Zoom. I was surprised how easy it was to meditate with my Bellingham Insight Meditation sangha, also using Zoom. Oh, and I just signed up for a Spanish class at WWU – also on Zoom – yikes! The rest feels like I am still traveling as I find ways to get food and set up a routine.

So, Now that I am home, which city truly was my favorite?

Caveat: These are my subjective opinions based on my experience and in no way constitutes fact. It was very difficult to narrow down my favorites and tomorrow I might be switching my choices!

Well, that depends on a number of factors . . .

A. Climate

I was surprised that climate impacted my ability enjoy the area. However, the heat and humidity kept me indoors instead of being outside. I was also surprised that shade, air movement (breeze, fan, air conditioning), and easy access to water went a long way to mitigate the impact of heat and humidity. So, if I were on a beachfront home, that had a pool, shade and A/C, I could enjoy the beautiful sunset, or sunrise, over the water and slow walks on the beach.

*Favorites:

San Cristóbal de las Casas, Chiapas, in March

It’s not surprising, coming from Bellingham, that I enjoy cool nights. So, San Cristóbal, at an elevation of 7,200, had cool (high 40’s to low 50’s) evenings and warm days (from the 70’s to the low 80’s). I thought this was perfect!

Oaxaca de Juarez, Oaxaca, in February

Oaxaca is only at an elevation of 5,000 but has very similar weather that I experienced in San Cristobal: cool nights and deliciously warm days. Assuming you have control of air flow and shade, this is perfect, too!

*Least Favorite:

Heroica Veracruz, Veracruz, in September

On the eastern coast of Mexico and during Mexico’s rainy season, I found Veracruz unbearably hot and muggy. The humidity was high and the temperatures ranged from the mid-70’s at night to the high 90’s during the day. I was lucky to have air conditioning, but found it difficult to wander outdoors very much. However, to sit in the breeze on the beach at sunset with a shrimp cocktail and a beer – that was the best!

Melaque/San Patricio, Jalisco, in January

On the West coast of Mexico, I found Melaque hot! Though temperatures ranged from the high 60’s at night and into the high 90’s during the day, it was the never ending heat that wore me out. I was lucky to have a fan, air conditioning and a pool, but if I was located on the beach and could sit in the shade while watch the water, it might have been perfect . . .

B. Cost:

The variability in cost and accessibility of lodging, food (both markets and dining out) was not huge, but it was significant. Choosing lodging though Air BnB provided an easy, consistent and safe process to secure great homes. However, in most cases, word of mouth, posters in a cafe, Craigslist, or numerous Facebook groups can line up great apartments at significantly savings. I found it curious that throughout my travels I found that wine was just as expensive as USA and it was difficult to find good, dry white wine.

*Favorites:

San Cristóbal de las Casas, Chiapas, in March

I had one of the best places to live in San Cristóbal, for about the least amount of money: $650 per month (through Air BnB). Food was cheap, no matter if I bought from the store, markets, or ate out.

Oaxaca de Juarez, Oaxaca, in February

Oaxaca also had reasonable Air BnB rates for lodging and had many options for food. They had lots of organic options, as well as small and large stores and markets.

*Least Favorite:

Ciudad de Mexico

Mexico City is a big city with big city prices. Of course, it also has a much wider variety in all things – but you pay for it.

San Miguel de Allende, Guanajuato

With so many ex-pats living in San Miguel the prices seem just a bit higher than the norm.

C. Culture:

My concept of culture includes stuff like: historical sites, churches, music, art, gardens, and an indigenous presence. I was amazed at the amount of reverence the Mexican people had, and government funds for, buildings and celebrations of the past. At first I was a bit annoyed that the past seemed more revered than the present, but I soon became a fan. All the places I visited had so much culture to enjoy.

*Favorites:

Guanajuato, Guanajuato in October

The Cervantino Festival is fantastic. The locations, the acts, the people, the beauty of the area, all contributed to my superlative experience. Held annually since the 70’s, this festival has grown to encompass such a wide variety of art, music, theater and dance. Held over 21 days, I was maxed out after 14 days. I was moved to tears more than once and so grateful for the experience.

San Cristóbal de las Casas, Chiapas

I was hampered by the need to social distance in San Cristobal, so I was not able to see all that this beautiful area had to offer. But it is recognizably different as soon as you wander around: so many more indigenous peoples and languages. The tourists are different: more families, young people, people with less money, and europeans. The area has a rich amount of history: from archaeological sites to Zapatista conflicts and benefits. There is a strong presence of the Mayan communities, who remained remote from a lot of control from outside sources. The picture above is the research library, established in the 50’s at Na Bolom, an amazing cultural center – a wonder to see and explore. They even have quite a number of bed and breakfast rooms from $35 to $70 per night.

D. Community:

My ability to find connections to community in the areas that I visited revolved around language programs that I enrolled in, and the active ex-pat communities. I did not participate in language programs in each location, so that impacted my ability to connect in those cities. Most cities had a vibrant ex-pat community who actively supports the economic, and social fabric of their adopted home. They volunteer in environmental projects, support local education, contribute to local businesses, art and music.

*Favorites:

Puebla de Zaragoza, Puebla

I loved my experience with the Spanish Institute of Puebla! Three hours of classroom instruction, three hours of conversation with native speakers (mainly students), and living with a Spanish speaking family really dropped me into regular Mexican life. Combine that with tours, on Wednesdays and Saturdays, that encouraged exploration of the area and fellowship with the other students, and it met all my needs and more! I had access to locals where we could have in depth conversations and develop strong connections.

San Miguel de Allende, Guanajuato

San Miguel has a very active ex-pat community. In the late 30’s and art institute was established which began to draw a lot of people from the US, and the attraction has been growing ever since. I was most impressed with the Unitarian Universalist Fellowship there. It reminded me of the UU church I grew up in during the 60’s and 70’s. What

Melaque/San Patricio, Jalisco

Melaque had the most unique ex-pat community that I encountered. Lots of Canadians, along with folks from the US, have been coming down for up to 30 years and staying between one and four months. They form a tight group, bring lots of donations, energy and money to support the local community, and sponsor lots of recreational and cultural events. I was fortunate to land into one of those groups based on where I was staying. They organized activities, potlucks, and even had a good bye party for me.

E. Location:

This applied to all the places I visited. I was happiest when I lived in an apartment that was close to the center of town, but no in the center. Being close allowed me to wander out whenever I heard something exciting going on, as there were always serendipitous events taking place in the center of town. Staying farther out of town meant the I, generally, did not get out more than once a day, and I felt I missed out on opportunities.

Bottom Line?

Where do I want to return? I could make a case to return to each of the cities that I visited, as they all were unique and delightful. However, my top three are listed below. I doubt I could ever pick up my life and move to Mexico, but I definitely plan to return often – probably for three to four months in the winter.

*Favorites:

Oaxaca de Juarez, Oaxaca

San Cristóbal de las Casas, Chiapas

I really didn’t get a chance to explore San Cristóbal as much as I would have liked to. There are several trips that I wanted to take – I can’t wait to come back!

Guanajuato, Guanajuato

Videos

With slow internet speed, I was not able to post any videos, so here are some of my favorites

Mexico City – June 8, 2019: The naked bike parade!

Mexico City at the Bellas Artes Theater in June: I loved watching the Ballet Folklorico, which reenacts parts of history dancing to traditional songs.

El Jardin in San Miguel de Allende on June 23, 2019 – One week after Dia de los Locos (Day of the Crazies) there was more dancing

El Jardin in San Miguel de Allende on June 23, 2019 – More dancing in front of the Parroquia!

San Miguel de Allende – University students from Guanajuato performing for tips

Coatepec, Veracruz – This is only a glimpse of an amazing event I happened upon where there were dancers from ages 3 to 73 lined up for blocks, all in traditional dress dancing “La Bamba”

Guanajuato Cervantino Festival – Los Negros y sus Fandangos from Guerrero

Grutas de Tolontongo, Hidalgo – thermal waters resort

Melaque in January – You’ve got to see the pelicans playing and plunging at sunset

Guanajuato – a wedding celebration in front of the Santo Domingo church

Oaxaca, a parade to celebrate high school graduation

And, Finally, What Do I Miss the Most?

I Miss Sidewalks!

I loved how my paths in Mexico did not guarantee my safety, nor my comfort. I love that I got to take responsibility for my careful steps as I made choices about how to proceed. Where should I place my feet – over the dog poop? Does it look slippery? I got to appreciate the mysterious circumstances that impacted the sidewalk in front of me. I got to choose to be present each and every step, looking up periodically to witness surprises and confirm my location. And when I got to where I was going I could be grateful to have arrived safely.

My Traveling Shoes are Home . . . For Now . . .

This started as an exploration of how I saw the Corona Virus pandemic impacting San Cristóbal de las Casas. But as the days went on, it turned into the story of me coming home. I have been practicing social distancing and struggling with decisions, so it has been difficult to get photos that I like. Generally I take pictures when my heart sings, not to craft a story. This is my story about the time when the Corona virus pandemic intersected with my Mexico Travels.

Phase One: Awareness, Concerns, and Decision

Awareness: March 5th through 11th

I was reading much of the US news about the Corona Virus and, at first, felt grateful to be in San Cristóbal where COVID-19 seemed far away. However, I began to wonder what life would be like if the Corona virus, and associated “social distancing” recommendations/requirements came to San Cristóbal. I wondered how the markets, restaurants, and people could adapt to delivery, take-out, and staying home.

“Ok folks, keep 6 feet apart – and don’t touch anything – where’s the sanitizer?”

Concerns: March 12th through 14th

I started searching for information about how exposed Mexico might be to the virus and how it is dealing with it. I read an article by a Mexican doctor who actively worked with the H1N1 virus. He estimated that Mexico would enter Phase Two, community transmission, between March 20th and 30th. Ok, that caught my attention . . . I was scheduled to fly from Chiapas to Puebla on March 28th, and I was traveling through the Mexico City airport. I then had six weeks studying in a Spanish program and living with a host family.

So, I quickly signed up for travelers insurance, and asked the Spanish Institute of Puebla (SIP) what their plan was and what options I had. I also signed up for the US State Department’s STEP (Smart Traveler Enrollment Program). I also began to see the first signs of concerns about the virus in San Cristóbal. I had dinner at an upscale courtyard of restaurants and this is what it looked like.

Decision: March 15th

Well, I found out, from SIP, that I could change from a home stay to an apartment; meals were still shared; extra cleaning and sanitizing stations had been added; and students showing symptoms would be asked to stay home. In addition, my $200 deposit could be delayed to a future program. I also realized that I had not made plans after Puebla, and I had not yet paid the remaining $2,200 for the Spanish program. It became increasingly clear that I had an opportunity to return home after San Cristóbal. I researched many ways of returning home and slept on it – waiting for clarity to arise.

Phase Two: Making it Happen

March 16th through 19th

I wanted to wait and chat with my friend BJ on the 18th, but found that if I booked my flight today, I could save about $100. So, I booked a non-stop flight from Mexico City to Seattle. I also booked an Air BnB in Bellingham for a month ($2,750 – well, that will take the place of my Spanish program).

However, my flight was on hold for 12 hours and I was told to call. So, I called and waited on hold for one hour, and again for two hours, before hanging up. So, I then booked a bus ride to the closest airport, a little over an hour away. Early on St. Patrick’s day I walked 30 minutes to the bus station, caught the bus/van to the airport to talk with the Aeromexico ticket agents. After a frustrating conversation with the two agents (one was in training – they were very rule focused), I had lunch – and a margarita. Then I went back to see them, because I had another idea about how I could get home – but, no, not an option. So I left with my ticket from Mexico City to Seattle on the 28th. However, my flight to Mexico City (that I had booked a while ago) landed only one hour before my flight to Seattle – so I was still stressed.

After talking with BJ, I decided that it was important enough to catch my flight to Seattle, that I booked a second, earlier, flight from Chiapas to Mexico City. I was able to do that on online, thank goodness. I also booked my third flight of the day, from Seattle to Bellingham. Thankfully, BJ offered to pick me up at the airport and take me to my Air BnB. Whew, my plan was set!

Phase Three (March 20th through 28th): Waiting . . . Things on My Mind

I can’t get sick!

Yes, I’m practicing social distancing, lot’s of extended hand washing and not touching my face (the hardest!). I started taking my temperature day and night to confirm I wasn’t getting sick. I started drinking EmergenC.

They can’t change my flights!

I have heard of other folks in Mexico having flights changed on them. My neighbors flight was canceled – but they were from Canada.

Worry and Anxiety

So, each day the landscape changes and I am invited to worry, and anxiety crops up. I lined up all important contact information in case my journey home presents challenges; you know: travel insurance company, US Embassy, Gov. Enslee’s Office. The slow and intermittent internet connections add a layer of frustration: wait, close out, restart, reconnect, wait, repeat. I see that the warnings for foreign travel include those of us trying to get home – yikes! With their March 14th Global Level 4 Health Advisory, the US State Department said, “Consider returning to your country of residence immediately using whatever commercial means are available.” Well, I tried and the fees were so high, so I kept my original travel date of March 28. I figured 14 days was immediate. They also say “Have a travel plan that does not rely on the U.S. Government for assistance.” Whoa, I’m struggling with alternatives. I’m four days away and hoping I make it. So far my flights are still booked.

What makes it better?

Talking/FaceTiming with friends and family!
Watching Trevor Noah, Jimmy Fallon, Stephen Colbert, Jimmy Kimmel, Ellen DeGeneres, and other forms of “news”
Listening to Pandora
Eating fresh fruits, veggies, cheese and meats
Playing solitaire, gin rummy, majong, cribbage, and scrabble
Listening to dharma talks and meditating
Taking melatonin to help get a good night’s rest
Watching Netflix, AppleTV, etc.
Taking advantage of the sun and beautiful weather
Drinking beer, wine and mezcal seems to help, but does it?

Changing Plans!

Good News!

A friend of my sister’s has a furnished studio apartment that I can rent under market value through June – until I have access to my home in July! And Air BnB refunded 100% of my pre-paid reservation fee!

Bad News!

Aeromexico canceled my flight from Mexico City to Seattle – no refund, no new flights. And, they are not available by phone. So, I screamed and cried, and considered just staying in San Cristóbal – it still seems relatively unaffected. Then I bought another flight – except I have to go through Atlanta. And I get into Seattle too late to fly to Bellingham the same night.

Good News!

Alaska will let me reschedule my flight to Bellingham. So, I can get a hotel on Saturday night and fly home on Sunday! It’s a good thing BJ, who will pick me up, can adjust her plans, as well.

Bad News??

I had to book two flights from Tuxla Gutierrez, Chiapas to Mexico City – one leaving at 9:35 am and the other leaving at 12:35 pm. Aeromexico changed the later flight, so now I have two seats on the same flight.

Really Bad News!

It’s the morning of March 27th, I’m pretty much all packed. I have checking in for the first leg of my trip. At 9:25 am I checking for my flight from Mexico City to Atlanta to Seattle – whew, I’m almost set. THEN, four hours later, my flight from Mexico City to Seattle, through Atlanta was cancelled! How can they do that?? So within an hour I booked a new flight (through LAX – for 3/29), booked a hotel in Mexico City, changed my flight to Bellingham, and cancelled my hotel in Seattle. I was numb at the end of it – but I still had a plan!

The changing signs of Corona virus responses in San Cristóbal

March 19th . . .

Cleaning comes with the room – but now I have to do my own cleaning

March 24th . . .

“Dear Clients: Please apply gel as you enter the market. We all must take care. Thanks”

Phase Four: March 28th & 29th – Travel Days

First Leg: San Cristóbal de las Casas to Tuxla Gutierrez Airport to Mexico City (Saturday 9:35 to 11:00 am)

I traveled Business Class and TXG is a small airport – what a great combination! I was looking forward to having a mimosa on the flight, but no liquor at all. I saw more evidence of cleaning, distributing hand sanitizer and notification since I was last here. I had my first temperature test as I passed through security.

The Mexico City airport has also changed since I last saw it. Again, more cleaning, distributing of hand sanitizer and notification. The biggest change was that there were no baggage handlers! I was able to get my own luggage chart, load up my own baggage and I took it all the way to my hotel room on the sixth floor! I had a wonderful dinner out in the airport where they made a big show of sanitizing everything at my table – even the menu.

Second Leg: Mexico City to Los Angeles (Sunday 8:00 am to 12:00 noon – with time change)

This day started out early – I woke up at 3:45 am (2:45 Bellingham time). The hotel was great and just a five minute walk to the check-in station. They seemed to have a lot more checks than last time. Before I could get to security I had to pass a health screening, including temperature check. It was all quick and easy as there weren’t many travelers. As I was boarding, for no apparent reason, I was upgraded to First Class! What a delight, but still nothing but water and coffee.

Third Leg: Los Angeles to Seattle (1:00 pm to 4:00 pm)

I had about a two hour layover at LAX. There was lots of walking. My Trusted Traveler status got me through Immigrations in a flash, using the terminal. But my mangoes got snatched. Don’t know why I thought I could bring them, but I tried. All customs and security personnel were gracious and friendly. I am not seeing the cleaning, sanitizing, notification, masks and gloves that I saw in Mexico. My temperature was not even taken. The airport was quiet and it was easy to keep my six feet of distance.

Arriving in Seattle I had to pick up my luggage and leave security because I had an eight hour layover. It was easy to hang out as the airport felt like a ghost town. I took a couple of laps around the terminal and settled into a good spot. I was glad I had packed some food, as there were only two places open. After three hours I could check my bags, travel through security and wait by my gate. These folks were not at friendly as in other airports, but maybe I was getting tired and grumpy.

Last Leg: Seattle to Bellingham (11:10 to 11:56 pm)

I was really groggy and anxious to be done by this point. It was nice to board the plane in the fresh, night air. I was surprised I did not recognize anyone else traveling to Bellingham. It was a quick and very bumpy trip. By this time I am crying, both because I would had to die so late in my trip, and because I was so near to done.

I am so grateful to my friend, BJ, who has supported me throughout my travels, and especially as I navigated my way back home. She picked me up and delivered me safely to my new home.

There wee only 18 of on this flight – scattered around for balance

Home . . . For Now . . .

Wow! I am so grateful to my sister, Carrie, and her friend, Tammy, who fostered a win-win situation for me to sub-let this beautiful apartment! On Railroad Ave, right downtown, I have a great city view from my balcony! Tammy has outfitted this place with such style and grace, I am fortunate to have this haven. Carrie picked up my “click list” shopping from Fred Myers and brought it to my new home. She even packed up a few of my clothes so I will have more clothing options in this different climate.

I stayed up until 2:30 am settling in, this made it a 24 hour day for me. I woke up 12 hours later, still feeling the seasick motion of travel, but more rested and grounded.

Immediately, I will be self-quarantining for 14 days. Like Christ, I hope to rise again on Easter and begin the new norm of social distancing. So, when I see you Bellinghamsters, know that I want to hug you, but will refrain!

Only time will tell if I made the right decision. After my travel through five airports I feel I made the wrong decision. My experience was that Mexicans airports had more preventive measures in place than the US ones. And the COVID-19 counts keep going up in the US. Because of the lead time it took to travel, I know I made the right decision at the time. And only the future will tell whether Mexico will have the same experience as other countries. But for now I will enjoy my new travel experience in Bellingham.

Feeling Safe in San Cristóbal

I’ve been getting some questions about COVID-19 in Mexico. As internet is so slow, my blogs are almost a week behind. So, next week you will see me tackle that topic. We are behind the US and I see the same avoidance from top political leaders.

For now, days generally pretty beautiful, with plenty of blue skies and sun, some clouds and rain. With no central heat I do grab my fleece in the mornings when the temperature is in the high 40’s, even though later in the day it gets into the low 80’s. I’m at about 7,300 feet in altitude, so the sun is intense!

Churches!

As you know, I love visiting churches. I love the way they look! I love the way it feels to be in them – I can almost feel the hopes and prayers of people who have been engaged in these sacred spaces since the 1500’s! I love the gatherings that happen around them. Though the Catholic religion was brought by the Spaniards, it has been mixed with the indigenous worship of saints and today it still seems very important to people’s daily lives. In many places I see people make the sign of cross as they pass by the church door.

Na Bolom Cultural Center

Na Bolom means “House of Jaguar” in the Lacandon Mayan language. Purchased in 1951 by Franz Blom, a Swedish explorer and his Swiss, journalist wife, Trudy, it put them closer to the many explorations into the Mayan lands settled by the Lacandon peoples. Their research, was some of the first to explore this region. After Frans’ death in 1969, Trudy continued the campaign in support of the Lacandon people and became one of the first environmental activists in that time. Both Frans and Trudy are really interesting people. I look forward to reading more about them. Now, as a museum, hotel and restaurant, their estate appears a bit tired and is need of some renewed energy.

Originally designed as a convent, this large estate was converted into their home, research and exhibition center.

Celebrating the Birthday of Benito Juárez

This mural from the Chapultepec Castle in Mexico City was depicted on one of my textbooks while I studied at the American School in Guadalajara. He was a hero of mine, as he was for most everyone, but I couldn’t quite remember why.

The third Monday of March is a Fiesta Patria (national holiday) and the only one that honors an individual as opposed to an event. It feels to me like Mexico’s history is more vibrant in the lives of its citizens. But, who was Benito Juárez?

He was born in a small town outside of Oaxaca to a poor family of Zapotec origin. Benito was orphaned at 3 years old, raised by his uncle, and worked as a shepherd until age 12. It is said that he dozed at work and lost his sheep. Rather than return home to be punished, Benito walked 37 miles into the town of Oaxaca in search of education. He became a domestic worker in the household where his sister worked.

This marble monument stands in Mexico City’s oldest park (Alameda Central). In fact, cities, airports, universities, markets, streets in nearly all cities, are named after Benito Juárez. His picture is on the $20 peso and the new $500 peso bills. Statues and monuments of him have been built in most cities of Mexico, many in South America; and in Washington DC, Chicago, Houston, San Diego and NYC. He was even the namesake for Benito Mussolini!

How did an orphan, born so long ago in a small, poor, Zapotec town become such a revered person?

His intelligence and desire for learning caught someone’s attention and he began studying to become a priest. He completed the schooling more quickly than he was able to be ordained. Instead, he studied law and graduated in 1834, at the age of 28.
In 1843 (37 years old) He married into the wealthy family where he and his sister had been domestic workers.
From 1847 (41 years old) to his death in 1872 he served at many levels of government, including Secretary of Education, Governor of Oaxaca, Secretary of the Interior, President of the Mexican Supreme Court, and President of Mexico.
In 1855 he led liberal reforms, with his Juárez Law, which stated that all Mexican citizens were equal under the law. Once adopted, it removed power and special privileges from the church and the military. The impact of this is still felt today. Many church buildings were turned over to the government for the use of all people.
In 1858 he became President, not by a vote, but because of constitutional law, when the preceding president was forced to resign.
1861 to 1867 – He was president during a difficult time in Mexican history, including the six-year French occupation. He never relinquished office but was forced into exile. He is credited with defeating foreign invaders.

“Entre los individuos, como entre las naciones, el respeto al derecho ajeno es la paz”
“Among individuals, as among nations, respect for the rights of others is peace.”

Statement of Juárez inscribed as a Motto on the State Flag of Oaxaca, of which he was Governor from 1847 to 1852