My Traveling Shoes are Home . . . For Now . . .

This started as an exploration of how I saw the Corona Virus pandemic impacting San Cristóbal de las Casas. But as the days went on, it turned into the story of me coming home. I have been practicing social distancing and struggling with decisions, so it has been difficult to get photos that I like. Generally I take pictures when my heart sings, not to craft a story. This is my story about the time when the Corona virus pandemic intersected with my Mexico Travels.

Phase One: Awareness, Concerns, and Decision

Awareness: March 5th through 11th

I was reading much of the US news about the Corona Virus and, at first, felt grateful to be in San Cristóbal where COVID-19 seemed far away. However, I began to wonder what life would be like if the Corona virus, and associated “social distancing” recommendations/requirements came to San Cristóbal. I wondered how the markets, restaurants, and people could adapt to delivery, take-out, and staying home.

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Concerns: March 12th through 14th

I started searching for information about how exposed Mexico might be to the virus and how it is dealing with it. I read an article by a Mexican doctor who actively worked with the H1N1 virus. He estimated that Mexico would enter Phase Two, community transmission, between March 20th and 30th. Ok, that caught my attention . . . I was scheduled to fly from Chiapas to Puebla on March 28th, and I was traveling through the Mexico City airport. I then had six weeks studying in a Spanish program and living with a host family.

So, I quickly signed up for travelers insurance, and asked the Spanish Institute of Puebla (SIP) what their plan was and what options I had. I also signed up for the US State Department’s STEP (Smart Traveler Enrollment Program). I also began to see the first signs of concerns about the virus in San Cristóbal. I had dinner at an upscale courtyard of restaurants and this is what it looked like.

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Decision: March 15th

Well, I found out, from SIP, that I could change from a home stay to an apartment; meals were still shared; extra cleaning and sanitizing stations had been added; and students showing symptoms would be asked to stay home. In addition, my $200 deposit could be delayed to a future program. I also realized that I had not made plans after Puebla, and I had not yet paid the remaining $2,200 for the Spanish program. It became increasingly clear that I had an opportunity to return home after San Cristóbal. I researched many ways of returning home and slept on it – waiting for clarity to arise.

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Phase Two: Making it Happen

March 16th through 19th

I wanted to wait and chat with my friend BJ on the 18th, but found that if I booked my flight today, I could save about $100. So, I booked a non-stop flight from Mexico City to Seattle. I also booked an Air BnB in Bellingham for a month ($2,750 – well, that will take the place of my Spanish program).

However, my flight was on hold for 12 hours and I was told to call. So, I called and waited on hold for one hour, and again for two hours, before hanging up. So, I then booked a bus ride to the closest airport, a little over an hour away. Early on St. Patrick’s day I walked 30 minutes to the bus station, caught the bus/van to the airport to talk with the Aeromexico ticket agents. After a frustrating conversation with the two agents (one was in training – they were very rule focused), I had lunch – and a margarita. Then I went back to see them, because I had another idea about how I could get home – but, no, not an option. So I left with my ticket from Mexico City to Seattle on the 28th. However, my flight to Mexico City (that I had booked a while ago) landed only one hour before my flight to Seattle – so I was still stressed.

After talking with BJ, I decided that it was important enough to catch my flight to Seattle, that I booked a second, earlier, flight from Chiapas to Mexico City. I was able to do that on online, thank goodness. I also booked my third flight of the day, from Seattle to Bellingham. Thankfully, BJ offered to pick me up at the airport and take me to my Air BnB. Whew, my plan was set!

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Phase Three (March 20th through 28th): Waiting . . . Things on My Mind

I can’t get sick!

Yes, I’m practicing social distancing, lot’s of extended hand washing and not touching my face (the hardest!). I started taking my temperature day and night to confirm I wasn’t getting sick. I started drinking EmergenC.

They can’t change my flights!

I have heard of other folks in Mexico having flights changed on them. My neighbors flight was canceled – but they were from Canada.

Worry and Anxiety

So, each day the landscape changes and I am invited to worry, and anxiety crops up. I lined up all important contact information in case my journey home presents challenges; you know: travel insurance company, US Embassy, Gov. Enslee’s Office. The slow and intermittent internet connections add a layer of frustration: wait, close out, restart, reconnect, wait, repeat. I see that the warnings for foreign travel include those of us trying to get home – yikes! With their March 14th Global Level 4 Health Advisory, the US State Department said, “Consider returning to your country of residence immediately using whatever commercial means are available.” Well, I tried and the fees were so high, so I kept my original travel date of March 28. I figured 14 days was immediate. They also say “Have a travel plan that does not rely on the U.S. Government for assistance.” Whoa, I’m struggling with alternatives. I’m four days away and hoping I make it. So far my flights are still booked.

What makes it better?

• Talking/FaceTiming with friends and family!
• Watching Trevor Noah, Jimmy Fallon, Stephen Colbert, Jimmy Kimmel, Ellen DeGeneres, and other forms of “news”
• Listening to Pandora
• Eating fresh fruits, veggies, cheese and meats
• Playing solitaire, gin rummy, majong, cribbage, and scrabble
• Listening to dharma talks and meditating
• Taking melatonin to help get a good night’s rest
• Watching Netflix, AppleTV, etc.
• Taking advantage of the sun and beautiful weather
• Drinking beer, wine and mezcal seems to help, but does it?

Changing Plans!

Good News!

A friend of my sister’s has a furnished studio apartment that I can rent under market value through June – until I have access to my home in July! And Air BnB refunded 100% of my pre-paid reservation fee!

Bad News!

Aeromexico canceled my flight from Mexico City to Seattle – no refund, no new flights. And, they are not available by phone. So, I screamed and cried, and considered just staying in San Cristóbal – it still seems relatively unaffected. Then I bought another flight – except I have to go through Atlanta. And I get into Seattle too late to fly to Bellingham the same night.

Good News!

Alaska will let me reschedule my flight to Bellingham. So, I can get a hotel on Saturday night and fly home on Sunday! It’s a good thing BJ, who will pick me up, can adjust her plans, as well.

Bad News??

I had to book two flights from Tuxla Gutierrez, Chiapas to Mexico City – one leaving at 9:35 am and the other leaving at 12:35 pm. Aeromexico changed the later flight, so now I have two seats on the same flight.

Really Bad News!

It’s the morning of March 27th, I’m pretty much all packed. I have checking in for the first leg of my trip. At 9:25 am I checking for my flight from Mexico City to Atlanta to Seattle – whew, I’m almost set. THEN, four hours later, my flight from Mexico City to Seattle, through Atlanta was cancelled! How can they do that?? So within an hour I booked a new flight (through LAX – for 3/29), booked a hotel in Mexico City, changed my flight to Bellingham, and cancelled my hotel in Seattle. I was numb at the end of it – but I still had a plan!

The changing signs of Corona virus responses in San Cristóbal

March 19th . . .

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March 24th . . .

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Phase Four: March 28th & 29th – Travel Days

First Leg: San Cristóbal de las Casas to Tuxla Gutierrez Airport to Mexico City (Saturday 9:35 to 11:00 am)

I traveled Business Class and TXG is a small airport – what a great combination! I was looking forward to having a mimosa on the flight, but no liquor at all. I saw more evidence of cleaning, distributing hand sanitizer and notification since I was last here. I had my first temperature test as I passed through security.

The Mexico City airport has also changed since I last saw it. Again, more cleaning, distributing of hand sanitizer and notification. The biggest change was that there were no baggage handlers! I was able to get my own luggage chart, load up my own baggage and I took it all the way to my hotel room on the sixth floor! I had a wonderful dinner out in the airport where they made a big show of sanitizing everything at my table – even the menu.

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Second Leg: Mexico City to Los Angeles (Sunday 8:00 am to 12:00 noon – with time change)

This day started out early – I woke up at 3:45 am (2:45 Bellingham time). The hotel was great and just a five minute walk to the check-in station. They seemed to have a lot more checks than last time. Before I could get to security I had to pass a health screening, including temperature check. It was all quick and easy as there weren’t many travelers. As I was boarding, for no apparent reason, I was upgraded to First Class! What a delight, but still nothing but water and coffee.

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Third Leg: Los Angeles to Seattle (1:00 pm to 4:00 pm)

I had about a two hour layover at LAX. There was lots of walking. My Trusted Traveler status got me through Immigrations in a flash, using the terminal. But my mangoes got snatched. Don’t know why I thought I could bring them, but I tried. All customs and security personnel were gracious and friendly. I am not seeing the cleaning, sanitizing, notification, masks and gloves that I saw in Mexico. My temperature was not even taken. The airport was quiet and it was easy to keep my six feet of distance.

Arriving in Seattle I had to pick up my luggage and leave security because I had an eight hour layover. It was easy to hang out as the airport felt like a ghost town. I took a couple of laps around the terminal and settled into a good spot. I was glad I had packed some food, as there were only two places open. After three hours I could check my bags, travel through security and wait by my gate. These folks were not at friendly as in other airports, but maybe I was getting tired and grumpy.

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Last Leg: Seattle to Bellingham (11:10 to 11:56 pm)

I was really groggy and anxious to be done by this point. It was nice to board the plane in the fresh, night air. I was surprised I did not recognize anyone else traveling to Bellingham. It was a quick and very bumpy trip. By this time I am crying, both because I would had to die so late in my trip, and because I was so near to done.

I am so grateful to my friend, BJ, who has supported me throughout my travels, and especially as I navigated my way back home. She picked me up and delivered me safely to my new home.

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Home . . . For Now . . .

Wow! I am so grateful to my sister, Carrie, and her friend, Tammy, who fostered a win-win situation for me to sub-let this beautiful apartment! On Railroad Ave, right downtown, I have a great city view from my balcony! Tammy has outfitted this place with such style and grace, I am fortunate to have this haven. Carrie picked up my “click list” shopping from Fred Myers and brought it to my new home. She even packed up a few of my clothes so I will have more clothing options in this different climate.

I stayed up until 2:30 am settling in, this made it a 24 hour day for me. I woke up 12 hours later, still feeling the seasick motion of travel, but more rested and grounded.

Immediately, I will be self-quarantining for 14 days. Like Christ, I hope to rise again on Easter and begin the new norm of social distancing. So, when I see you Bellinghamsters, know that I want to hug you, but will refrain!

Only time will tell if I made the right decision. After my travel through five airports I feel I made the wrong decision. My experience was that Mexicans airports had more preventive measures in place than the US ones. And the COVID-19 counts keep going up in the US. Because of the lead time it took to travel, I know I made the right decision at the time. And only the future will tell whether Mexico will have the same experience as other countries. But for now I will enjoy my new travel experience in Bellingham.

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