San Cristobal de las Casas, Chiapas!

Wow! After a whirlwind month in Oaxaca, I am now settling into the very different city of San Cristobal de las Casas, in the state of Chiapas. It is the farthest South I will get. I am feeling quite introverted and am resting up for my busy April in Puebla. I will be sticking close to town even though San Cristobal is surrounded by natural wonders (caves, rivers, falls, archeological, canyons, and more) and towns (indigenous, artisan, Zapatista influence). I can see why this city (population about 160,000) is considered the cultural capital of Chiapas. The beautiful people doing business in the streets and markets represent the historic Mayan culture of this area. The languages, Tzotzil and more, are very commonly heard on the streets, accompanied by their beautiful, traditional dress. Their dress highlights the diverse and striking textiles and amazing hand-craft talents these people have. The markets are plentiful, overwhelming, crowded and lovely in their opportunities for purchasing. I can hardly keep my wallet closed! I was impressed by how big a center for amber this is, and the work is creative, abundant and low priced. San Cristobal seems to draw different kinds of visitors. I see quite a few young people and people from countries other than USA and Canada. It almost has a “hippie” vibe. One of my favorite pastimes is to order a limonada mineral, drink it outside and people watch.

Home

The banner photo is the view from my bedroom on my first day. This view of Templo de Guadalupe is one of the great things about my home. Another is the design and ecological and socially responsible design elements. The Air BnB profile states that “The apartments were designed and built by Frédéric Burkhard, winner of the 2012 European Award for Artistic and Cultural Activities. Frédéric’s designs are distinctive in their organic forms, use of natural light and efficient use of space.

We are a family business committed to social and environmental responsibility. Environmentally friendly features and practices include:

• on site waste water treatment in an attractive, innovative and hygienic “living-machine” system;
• rainwater capture from the roofs in underground cisterns;
• beautiful landscaping that minimizes runoff and maximizes the return of water to aquifers;
• a solar heater that preheats water, reducing consumption by the gas heater;
• composting;
• minimal use of toxics for cleaning and grounds.

Our staff earn well above the minimum wage and we always treat them with the respect and gratitude they deserve. We enjoy the diversity of visitors we receive and do not discriminate on the basis of race, ethnicity, sexual orientation, etc.”

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“Drink Like a Local” Tour

So, I took this tour, but it should have been called “Drink Like a Millennial”. I was the only one over 35 and, in a little over three hours, we went to five different places and drank the following types of alcohol:

• Cocktails
• Pox (pronounced posh)
• Pulque
• Mescal
• Craft beer

Now, I thought that I was mature enough to handle this. The young people were nice, the glasses were small, we walked a lot, the guide was checking in with me. But after I finished a pint of beer at the last place, it all hit me. And, possibly because I was mature, I found a taxi home and went to bed – after drinking lots of water and taking Tylenol. It was fun being out at night and playing with the young people – and I learned a lot about these local beverages.

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Food – and Drink!

San Cristobal has a large variety of ethnic, not just Mexican, food! However, I have only been out for a meal twice: first was sushi and second was pizza. With all the fresh fruits and veggies, and aligned with my more introverted mood, I am enjoying cooking at home.

My food buying trips looks like this:

• Tortillas from Tortillería
• Bread from Panadería
• Desserts from Pastelería, or a couple of French patisseries
• Cheese from gourmet cheese store (family run, locally made)
• Cooked & processed meat from Charcuchería
• Fruits (mangos, oranges, bananas & strawberries), veggies (avocados, jicama, carrots, red pepper, cucumbers, limes) and eggs from El Mercadito

Chapulines – Grasshoppers!

I am intrigued with grasshoppers. Almost every corner has a couple of buckets of them for sale. I have tasted them in quesadillas, tacos, salsas, and more. I have even bought my own salsa with grasshoppers blended in. I finally bought them (see last photo). I’m not sure what I’m going to do with them. I’d love to bring them home and make a special salt blend that a bar tender told me about: equal parts sea salt, pasilla chili (smoked flavor), and Chapulines. I’d love to add garlic, too.

Besides, if I am to re-marry I need to eat them daily for 30 days. I know this is true because my taxi driver told me – and it was also corroborated by a waiter.

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Textile Museum

This world class exhibit is located in the beautiful Ex-Convento Santo Domingo. I am not a super fan of textiles, but the amazing examples of handwoven textiles (over 500), from Mexico and Central America, were drop dead gorgeous. Much of these were artfully, displayed in drawers that protects each piece. I have been surprised by the use of sparkling threads, especially in skirts and shawls, that I have seen in clothing worn by indigenous people in the city. However, this trend is also demonstrated in this exhibit. I love the bit of bling!

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People

I love the cultural norm of greeting people as we pass each other on the street and in restaurants. It is more than uttering a phrase – it is how their faces light up, and mine, too, as we trade greetings.

In other exchanges I find that people look me in the eye and observe my subtle cues. They open up quickly when I match them with my own openness and warm-heartedness, and they keep their distance when I don’t extend. When we do connect, I love how easily the conversation flows as they ask me whatever they want to know and I do the same – and we laugh – and conversations often turns personal, emotional, or political.

I struggle with the large number of kids, mothers, elders, and physically challenged people who approach me for money. I don’t have enough change in my wallet to give to each and every one of them. And, there is conflicting information about the helpfulness of that gesture.

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Dedicated to Hal: a sharp witted & sharp tonged speaker, knowledgeable & grounded leader, a warm-hearted & committed community member, and a generous friend