Life in Melaque

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Recent statistics lists Melaque’s population at 7,569 with about 3% of the population as indigenous and almost 40% people coming from outside the state of Jalisco. I wonder if the large number of American and Canadians that come for three months in the winter are accounted for? I was surprised to read that close to 3.5% are illiterate, only 41% of the population are “economically active” and not all homes have electricity or bathrooms. However, more people have televisions than have piped water or refrigerators. It is reported that less than half of the households have a car or van, about 25% have computers, and only 19% have internet access. (source: www.en.mexico.pueblosamerica.com).

Well, if that is a statistical picture of Melaque, what are my impressions? Certainly, there is a very wide range of standards of living, with very few living how we live and most families finding very creative ways to make a living. There is an abundance of chickens, goats, dogs, and cats living with families and contributing to their quality of life – in one way or another. Many families are able to coexist with a family run business out of their home, or on a spot of beach. This includes stores, restaurants, artisan crafts, beauty services, to name a few. Most businesses have at least one person that speak pretty fluent English. There are very few people begging, like there are in bigger cities. People are mostly hanging out with families or friends, not too many loners. There appears to be some commercial fishing, so boats are out early in the morning. Evenings are busy with activity (eating, music, walking, chatting) all pouring out into the streets that double as living rooms. After 11 pm things generall seem calm and quiet. I feel quite safe here.

The best part of Melaque is THE BEACH!

With a gracefully curving beach stretching over two miles, there is room for everyone to be out enjoying it – especially around dusk. Groups of people sit under umbrellas, at the edge of their hotels, on the sand to watch – the almost always – gorgeous sunsets. I love watching the pelicans dive! The kids and young adult (mostly males) are using boogie boards to surf or play with the waves. Yes, there are plenty of places to eat and drink, which goes great with sunset watching – and you get to sit under an umbrella! In the pictures below look for the large abandoned hotel building in the background. In 1985 an earthquake did a lot of damage on Mexico’s Pacific coast, including this hotel site. It has been vacant since then providing an intereting backdrop to some of the beach life.

So, how do my days blend into the rhythm of this town? It has taken me a while to figure that out. I find walking the beach is a very necessary activity for me. So, I need to do that between 8 and 10 in the morning (until the sun gets too hot to enjoy). I walk again at dusk between a little after 6 pm to 10 pm. That means I need to get to bed early and carefully plan my coffee break. Similar to coffee time at Bellingham Cohousing, many ex-pats, including me, head to La Taza Negra, and the associated restaurant, Palmera Negra on a daily basis. Besides great coffee and great service, their open design allows for a breeze to keep cool and for musicians (both local and ex-pat) to add to the lovely ambiance.

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La Taza Negra has decent Wi-Fi, and frequently I get to share my table with someone to talk with. I recently ran into Ken, who is just about to turn 90 and shared a bit of his very interesting life, including the quote below, which lifted my spirits!

If we want our species to survive, if we are to find meaning 

In life, if we want to save the world and every sentient being

That inhabits it, love is the one and only answer.

Attributed to Albert Einstein

During the hottest parts of the day I get to stay in my little bungalow, with a fan and air conditioning to keep me cool. I get to work on projects, most of which involve organizing files on my computer. So the slow Wi-Fi certainly challenges my productivity! I am learning about iMovie and finding ways to work with the various video clips I’ve taken over the years. I was able to spend ample time understanding my estimated taxes after my financially chaotic 2019 year. What fun! I am slowly meeting the others that live in the Villas and enjoy swaping stories.

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