My México Travels

San Cristobal de las Casas, Chiapas!

Wow! After a whirlwind month in Oaxaca, I am now settling into the very different city of San Cristobal de las Casas, in the state of Chiapas. It is the farthest South I will get. I am feeling quite introverted and am resting up for my busy April in Puebla. I will be sticking close to town even though San Cristobal is surrounded by natural wonders (caves, rivers, falls, archeological, canyons, and more) and towns (indigenous, artisan, Zapatista influence). I can see why this city (population about 160,000) is considered the cultural capital of Chiapas. The beautiful people doing business in the streets and markets represent the historic Mayan culture of this area. The languages, Tzotzil and more, are very commonly heard on the streets, accompanied by their beautiful, traditional dress. Their dress highlights the diverse and striking textiles and amazing hand-craft talents these people have. The markets are plentiful, overwhelming, crowded and lovely in their opportunities for purchasing. I can hardly keep my wallet closed! I was impressed by how big a center for amber this is, and the work is creative, abundant and low priced. San Cristobal seems to draw different kinds of visitors. I see quite a few young people and people from countries other than USA and Canada. It almost has a “hippie” vibe. One of my favorite pastimes is to order a limonada mineral, drink it outside and people watch.

Home

The banner photo is the view from my bedroom on my first day. This view of Templo de Guadalupe is one of the great things about my home. Another is the design and ecological and socially responsible design elements. The Air BnB profile states that “The apartments were designed and built by Frédéric Burkhard, winner of the 2012 European Award for Artistic and Cultural Activities. Frédéric’s designs are distinctive in their organic forms, use of natural light and efficient use of space.

We are a family business committed to social and environmental responsibility. Environmentally friendly features and practices include:

on site waste water treatment in an attractive, innovative and hygienic “living-machine” system;
rainwater capture from the roofs in underground cisterns;
beautiful landscaping that minimizes runoff and maximizes the return of water to aquifers;
a solar heater that preheats water, reducing consumption by the gas heater;
composting;
minimal use of toxics for cleaning and grounds.

Our staff earn well above the minimum wage and we always treat them with the respect and gratitude they deserve. We enjoy the diversity of visitors we receive and do not discriminate on the basis of race, ethnicity, sexual orientation, etc.”

“Drink Like a Local” Tour

So, I took this tour, but it should have been called “Drink Like a Millennial”. I was the only one over 35 and, in a little over three hours, we went to five different places and drank the following types of alcohol:

Cocktails
Pox (pronounced posh)
Pulque
Mescal
Craft beer

Now, I thought that I was mature enough to handle this. The young people were nice, the glasses were small, we walked a lot, the guide was checking in with me. But after I finished a pint of beer at the last place, it all hit me. And, possibly because I was mature, I found a taxi home and went to bed – after drinking lots of water and taking Tylenol. It was fun being out at night and playing with the young people – and I learned a lot about these local beverages.

Food – and Drink!

San Cristobal has a large variety of ethnic, not just Mexican, food! However, I have only been out for a meal twice: first was sushi and second was pizza. With all the fresh fruits and veggies, and aligned with my more introverted mood, I am enjoying cooking at home.

My food buying trips looks like this:

Tortillas from Tortillería
Bread from Panadería
Desserts from Pastelería, or a couple of French patisseries
Cheese from gourmet cheese store (family run, locally made)
Cooked & processed meat from Charcuchería
Fruits (mangos, oranges, bananas & strawberries), veggies (avocados, jicama, carrots, red pepper, cucumbers, limes) and eggs from El Mercadito

Chapulines – Grasshoppers!

I am intrigued with grasshoppers. Almost every corner has a couple of buckets of them for sale. I have tasted them in quesadillas, tacos, salsas, and more. I have even bought my own salsa with grasshoppers blended in. I finally bought them (see last photo). I’m not sure what I’m going to do with them. I’d love to bring them home and make a special salt blend that a bar tender told me about: equal parts sea salt, pasilla chili (smoked flavor), and Chapulines. I’d love to add garlic, too.

Besides, if I am to re-marry I need to eat them daily for 30 days. I know this is true because my taxi driver told me – and it was also corroborated by a waiter.

This Mayan hot chocolate is the best! A bit grainy, but very rich with added spices.

Textile Museum

This world class exhibit is located in the beautiful Ex-Convento Santo Domingo. I am not a super fan of textiles, but the amazing examples of handwoven textiles (over 500), from Mexico and Central America, were drop dead gorgeous. Much of these were artfully, displayed in drawers that protects each piece. I have been surprised by the use of sparkling threads, especially in skirts and shawls, that I have seen in clothing worn by indigenous people in the city. However, this trend is also demonstrated in this exhibit. I love the bit of bling!

People

I love the cultural norm of greeting people as we pass each other on the street and in restaurants. It is more than uttering a phrase – it is how their faces light up, and mine, too, as we trade greetings.

In other exchanges I find that people look me in the eye and observe my subtle cues. They open up quickly when I match them with my own openness and warm-heartedness, and they keep their distance when I don’t extend. When we do connect, I love how easily the conversation flows as they ask me whatever they want to know and I do the same – and we laugh – and conversations often turns personal, emotional, or political.

I struggle with the large number of kids, mothers, elders, and physically challenged people who approach me for money. I don’t have enough change in my wallet to give to each and every one of them. And, there is conflicting information about the helpfulness of that gesture.

I am fascinated by the beautiful, black furry skirts that women wear. They look like a pelt, but they are woven wool from sacred sheep

I spotted this table on my walk up and stopped on my way down. Esmeralda came out to help me. She was a delight – look at that face! She told me about the process her family uses to prepare the rocks for carving and shared that her grandfather is the main carver, and how this is their main source of income. Needless to say, I bought the beautiful leaf – for $4 USD.

I happened upon an event where many younger people were working with huge numbers of bottle caps in all colors. I watched for a while and thought I would come back the next to see what had transpired. But it was all picked up by then – curious.

Dedicated to Hal: a sharp witted & sharp tonged speaker, knowledgeable & grounded leader, a warm-hearted & committed community member, and a generous friend

Hard to Say Goodby to Oaxaca

The last two weeks in Oaxaca were chock full of activities! This part was planned with my friend, BJ. It was so fun to have her here! Oaxaca had its violent struggles around 2006, but by 2012 peace was on its way back and now the city is experiencing a boom of good fortune where, for the most part, residents are able to make a decent living. It is surrounded by smaller towns that are known for a particular artisan skill: black (green and red) pottery, tapestry weaving, alebrijes, etc. Hearing the Zapotec language spoken is quite common, as well as numerous other indigenes languages. The heat peaked at 90 degrees or more during the height of the day, but the mornings and evenings were delightful, and sometimes cool, dipping down into the low 50’s. We enjoyed the people, the art, the food, the drink, the architecture, the museums, and more!

Our Home . . .

Knowing BJ and I, you must know that we spent a great deal of time picking out our home last October. It cost about twice the amount of my usual homes, but we were sharing it, so it was within my budget. The two features we were most excited about were two bedrooms (which didn’t come to pass) and a large terrace (a real highlight!). The location was perfect, right near the Centro; but we were off the street, so not much street noise. The manager lived across the patio and was delightful. She and her husband have two adorable twin boys who celebrated their fourth birthday while we were there.

Our School . . .

We also spent quite a while selecting a school, utilizing spreadsheets, of course. We settled on the Spanish Immersion School and paid our deposit in October. It has no campus, of sorts; however, it offers one-on-one instruction. It turned out to be the perfect choice! We met our teachers at 9 each morning for three hours. Usually I asked to go have coffee – which suited Alfonso just fine.

One Saturday we signed up for a tour to two villages: San Martín Tilcajete, known for their alebrijes; and San Bartolo Coyotepec for their black pottery. You may remember alebrijes from the movie, Coco. They are brightly colored sculptures of animals and fantastical creatures. Two teachers served as guides and we took public transportation – a long day and much fun!

Our guide, Jacob, demonstrating characteristics of local plants

Near the end of our time Alfonso drove me to one of his favorite towns, San Augustin Etla. The public building there used to be a textile plant built by the French. After it was deserted, it was purchased by a local, highly respected artist, Francisco Toledo. His name comes up a lot and he has a habit of purchasing beautiful old buildings and donated them for public use. He died last year and his influence is everywhere in Oaxaca!

The stunning Iglesia de Soledad Vista Hermosa is said to be the only one of gothic revival style in Mexico.

Our last day of classes BJ and her teacher, Gadi, along with Alfonso and I, had breakfast together and then wandered around another ex-convent, Santa Catalina, that is now the Quinta Real Hotel.

Community laundry room from long ago . . .

Extra-Curricular Activities

One of the great things about enrolling in a school is that you have experts and other travelers that refer you to great local events. One of my favorites was a free concert by the Oaxaca Orquesta at the Macedonia Alcalá Theater. The building is beautiful on the outside and I was dying to see the inside. BJ left early to stand in line for seats. When I joined her, she was very near the beginning, so we had our pick of seats! We chose the first balcony and sat in comfy seats in our own box. When the curtains raised, I was confused by the instrumentation. They had two drum sets, bass guitar, electric guitar, two electric keyboards . . . Then I saw the conductor had a saxophone hanging from his neck and I knew we would be in for a treat. We hadn’t seen the poster, so we were surprised that instead of Oaxaca’s symphonic orchestra, we were listening to their “primavera” (spring) orchestra. This concert was a tribute to two of Mexico’s musicians. We later heard that one of them, Jose Jose, had a mixed reputation of being a drunk with multiple families at the same time, giving him much drama to inform his songs. BJ likened the over-the-top singer to Engelbert Humperdinck. He had the audience singing and they ALL knew the words to the songs. It was not what I was expecting, but such a delightful twist and so much fun!

One day after class BJ and I headed to Teotitlán del Valle to meet some friends of friends in Bellingham. Cheryl and Kelly have been coming to Oaxaca for some time and are now living at the Arte Seda. This family run business raises silkworms and harvests their cocoons to spin silk and weave it into beautiful fabric. BJ and I enjoyed the tour and bought some of their work. When decisions became hard, out came the mescal to help us along! Cheryl and Kelly gave us a tour and made sure we got home safe and sound. What a treat to meet such nice Bellinghamsters in Oaxaca!

On our last night, BJ and I went out for a celebratory dinner at another wonderful restaurant recommended by one of BJ’s friends – yum! On our way home we ran into a street parade for a young couple getting married in the morning – just another Friday night in the city!

Gratuitous Street Art, Architecture, Windows and Doors (for Lesley)

Oaxaca – You Are the Best!

I know I have said this before, but I really mean it this time! The art, music, dance, weather, people and hills make me believe that Oaxaca is the best city I have visited.

First “Home” in Oaxaca

“La Calera is a former limestone factory now functioning as venue for social and cultural events, complemented with lofts available for short stays through airbnb.” This was an unusual, and delightful, place to stay! Staying home was enjoyable, but the centro was a 45 minute walk along a busy street, so we really had to want to leave. No worries, as Ellen wanted five days of tours!

A Day off from Tours

Ellen wanted to keep really busy during her five full days here, so tours were booked for each day. One day Ellen went by herself to see several different different artisans at work. She came home with an alebrije (Mexican folk art sculptures of fantasy or mythical creatures) and paints. Her Sunday tour was canceled due to the instructor being ill, so we had a slow morning and walked into town. Along the way we followed some music and found folks dancing in a square. It looked like they were practicing. They all wore similar sandals. The women had full white skirts over their jeans and their hair braided in bright colored ribbons. We ended the day going out for dinner at a restaurant with a terraza that overlooked the Santa Domingo church and the beautiful hills beyond.

Tour to Hierve de Agua and more

Hierve de Agua (the water boils)

This eleven-hour tour through Coyote Adventures (https://www.coyoteaventuras.com/) was one of the best I have been on. We started at 6:30 am and enjoyed a traditional breakfast along the way in Roeguia – hand ground corn, dirt floors, goats in the back, great coffee, amazing food. The early start allowed us to get to the first stop before most of the crowds. We walked down to the first area, called “cascada chica,” also called the Amphitheatre. The two pools are artificially formed but continue to be “decorated” by the water which is oversaturated with calcium carbonate. The bubbling water appears all over this area as it comes to the surface through cracks or fissures on the mountainside. As it mixes with other mineral, like silver, barium and iron, different colors are forms. We went down to the second section, la cascada grande. We had a local guide accompany us and showed us remains of the extensive system of irrigation and terraces built by the Zapotecs as many as 2,500 years ago. It was also most likely a sacred site to the ancient peoples of the Oaxaca valley. We made our way back up to the top and enjoyed chatting and having refreshments.

At this point, Ellen and I left with the driver and the rest of the crew hiked down to the valley floor. The driver was fun to talk to and added a stop to sample “agua miel” a non-alcoholic drink from the juice of the agave. It was a long ride and the walking crew arrived at our destination before we did!

Las Salinas Watering Hole

This was a treat! Seemingly out in the middle of nowhere we came upon this lovely watering hole! A quick trip to the changing room to get into our swimsuits and we were ready. We were assisted by hand and a ladder to navigate the rocks into the water stream we walked through. I placed my phone in a waterproof container, so the photos have an interesting filter. It was so refreshing in the heat of the day – what a delight. We saw the same bubbling as before, along with rich colors and formations. Upon our return a cooler with refreshments was produced and I enjoyed a beer.

Artisanal Mescal

On the way home we stopped for an amazing lunch at a family run mescalería who have developed their process since the 1800’s. It was fascinating and pretty much all outdoors! They use their donkey, named Wendy, to grind the piñas (roasted hearts of the agave plant) using a tahona. These are placed into large wooden vats to ferment. We could see the bubbles and smell the resulting flavor very close to the end product. The liquid is then placed into copper containers embedded in a brick structure where the distillation process takes place. It is distilled a couple of times until the flavor and alcoholic content are deemed appropriate. This business did not yet have a bottling process. So, when I bought my bottle, it was poured into a recycled tequila Souza bottle – yum!

Adios Melaque – Hola Oaxaca

Trips to Barra de Navidad from Melaque

My first trip to Barra I walked the beach for about 45 minutes to the other side of the Baía de Navidad (Bay of Christmas). Barra feels bigger to me, even though it is the same size. It seems to have more shops and restaurants focused on tourists, both in country and out. It feels almost “resorty” with bars on the sidewalks! At the end of the bay, a lagoon begins which provides protect water play space. Atop the hill in the distance is the Grand Bay Resort, which I find can be quite picturesque! The next time I went to Barra was with two couples from the Villa Estrella, one walked and the other rode the bus – I went for the bus this time. I do enjoy the local buses -they are cheap (less than $20/$1 USD), filled with local people navigating their daily life. I wouldn’t have known how to catch the bus without being told by others. Soon after we arrived, a wedding was taking place in the local church. We felt honored and impressed as we watched and listened. The singing was amazing, the white flowers outside the church were beautiful! Later we wandered down to the many boats along the shore of the lagoon. We took one for free that took us out past the Grand Bay Resort, and the luxury yachts, to Mary’s Restaurant. We nearly had the whole thing to ourselves! We were assisted off the boat and we took a table with a lovely view over the lagoon. We enjoyed a lovely meal – I seem to be ordering shrimp everywhere I go – and headed back after dark. It was great to share this with my friends from the Villa Estrella.

Trip to La Manzanilla from Melaque

Another bus ride took me to La Manzanilla. I met a lovely woman from Colorado who is also traveling on her own. She has made this trip many times and gave me some tips and directions. I heard many amazing stories of close encounters with crocodiles, but only saw a few at a distance. This beach is captivating – peaceful with a slow curve and a long shallow slope. It was a lovely contrast to Melaque’s short and steep shore. La Manzanilla sand seems to have a lot of mica and it seems to make it shimmer with gold. Upon recommendation from Hal, I stopped at Pedro’s and enjoyed a great margarita and guacamole before I returned by bus.

The Final Good-bye to Melaque

Shortly before I left, we had strong rains – it felt like Melaque was telling me it was time to leave. To commemorate, I had a fancy meal out. Like many, this restaurant was open air and on the second floor. I was glad to see that my waitress was my favorite one from the coffee shop I love. The creative menu was presented on a large blackboard. I ordered Shrimp Curry and the flavors were fantastic! I didn’t finish it all because I wanted to try the amazing chocolate dessert topped with warm cream. I was not disappointed! My last night in town, Mike and Mary (from

Vancouver Island) invited me to dinner with Viqui and David. We enjoyed a candlelight dinner while we laughed and talked. Later, Kim and Wayne brought a beautiful cake which we share with more residents of Villa Estrella. I have so enjoyed getting to know this good people. I do hope I see them again.

Meeting Ellen and Oaxaca!

On Wednesday I flew from Manzanillo to Mexico City and me Ellen, a friend from home. We then traveled on the same plane to Oaxaca and found our way to our very interesting Air BnB home! The next morning we walked for 40 minutes into town, for our first tour, and it is so nice to be able to appreciate beautiful doors and windows again!

First Tour Day – Art Galleries & Dinner

Ellen is only here for five full days, and two travel days, so I booked her up with five days of tours. She has a strong interest in art, so that has been the focus of the tours. Be began with a three-hour tour to seven art galleries in town led by local artist, Emiliano. We were most impressed with the variety and beauty we saw at each one we went to!

We went out to dinner at Casa Oaxaca, one of the most famous restaurants in town. We enjoyed an excellent meal of local delicacies. My favorite was when the waiter blended the salsa at our table with grasshoppers – yum!

On our way home we stopped by the church and enjoyed it’s beauty, including the almost full moon over it’s shoulder. Walking home we encountered the night market in the Zocalo – such amazing colors!

Second Tour Day – Bicycling to Tule Tree & Teotitlán del Valle

Our second day began with a 10K bicycle trip out to the Tule Tree in Santa Maria del Tule. This tree has the largest circumference of any tree in the world – 62.5 yards. It’s age is estimated at more than 2,000 years old. It is well maintained by the town and is remarkable!

After our tour we took a taxi to Teotítlan del Valle, a very interesting town known for it’s rug weaving. The taxi driver took us to a home for a demonstration. Thought we did not know what we were getting into, it was an excellent experience! Josephina Méndez López invited us into her home where the entire family were busy with various phases of the family business. She pulled up two plastic chairs in the center of a dirt floored room with an interesting assortment of products used to dye the wool. She proceeded to demonstrate, live and in color, how they derive all the colors they use for their wool from plants and animals. She showed us a nopal cactus with white spots which were live cochineal bug. I squished it and it turned deep red. She added lime and it turned orange. She added lyme and it turned turquoise! More color variations came with the use of white, or variations of gray, wool. We were transfixed!

We spent the rest of the day wandering the village, including their Community Cultural Center Museum. For a small donation we enjoyed their beautiful building with amazing displays: of textile, their way of life, food, and candle making. They own everything in common and government leaders serve without pay and rotate through their citizenry (much like cohousing?). We waited an hour for the local bus which was fun and interesting.

Lots to do In & Near Melaque

Wednesday Market

I was amazed at the size of this market, given how small the town is. It seems to be laid out in a big cross going about five blocks long in each direction. Folks set up in the morning and take it down by evening. One of my favorite booths is the “Dutch Deli” where I get carrot cake and pickled beets!

Friends Gathering at Villa Estrella D’Mar

I am staying at the “Villa” in one of their twelve rooms. The people I have met here are wonderful – and mostly Canadian. Many have been coming back to the Villa for many years and have formed friendships with other people staying here over the years. Kim and Vicky arranged a lovely potluck on the upper terrace with tamales and a roast! We ate – we danced. I even had a lesson on how to drink tequila. Hint: slow the process down. I’ll show you when I get back.

From talking with other people around town, it seems that many lodging establishments have similar longevity of guests and connections between them. I love that forming community, even “on vacation”, is a natural process in Melaque!

One day Mike and Mary showed us one of their favorite places to watch the sunset. We took the bus to the other side of the bay and hiked up to the top of Punto de Melaque. We shared some wine, cheese, crackers and veggies. I was most impressed with the show, but others said that they had seen better. I felt so safe making this trip with friends and so I appreciated the camaraderie.

I returned from a day trip to find a note inviting me to join a few of the folks from the Villa who were enjoying the Elvis show next door at Rosita’s restaurant. I went next door and found quite a party going on! “Elvis” had quite a good voice and sang some non-Elvis songs, too. Rosita’s has really good food, but doesn’t generally have music. This was a special event for Rosita and everyone was there to support her. She has seven kids and she is supporting them through college. I thoroughly enjoyed myself, and loved watching the entire staff getting their photo with Elvis.

Ola Brisa Garden – The Civilized Jungle

I signed up for a day trip through Flip Flop Tours and had an amazing day! Eleven of us, including three year-old Claire, climbed into a van, driven by Cezar, with our tour guide, Dan. Our first stop was the botanical gardens of Ola Brisa Garden. It is a private home where the owner, Tommy Clarkson, and his recently deceased wife, Patty, have transformed their steep, arid lot located above Manzanillo. Tommy served us coffee and delightfully shared with us the amazing richness in his terraced yard. He has written three books drawn from the information he has gained through his “hobby” of collecting tropical plants from all over the world and nurturing them in his back yard. It was mind boggling, but it also felt so rich to be surrounded by all these breathtaking plants. Tommy was very generous with his spirit and time and I left feeling grateful for the experience.

After our tour of Ola Brisa, we went into Manzanillo for lunch. I sat with a young couple from Canada, and another woman from Sonoma, California. Lunch came out two meals at a time, so we had plenty of time to get to know each other. Lunch was delicious and we were soon on our way.

El Tortugario Ecológico (The Turtle Reserve)

We drove south of Manzanillo over a bridge separating the first two sections of the network of lagoons and drove alongside the black beaches of Cuyutlán to the Turtle Reserve on the fourth section, called Estero Palo Verde. This part of the tour has three sections: a boat trip into the Estero where the birds were peaceful and plentiful; an Iguana section where we saw them in many shapes and colors; and a turtle section where about eight pools housed different types of turtles.

El Tortugario Ecologico

By the end of the day I was clear about a bit of magic that I experience in Melaque. The “tourists” I have met here are different that ones I have met elsewhere – even different from the ex-pats that I have met elsewhere. These people create community in Melaque and connect with the local residents in formal and informal ways. Many people, independently, bring down supplies to support the schools. They sponsor and attend fund raisers. They join the Community Church and collaboratively support local families in need. “Tourists” know and care about their local vendors and businesses – they have been supporting them for years. “Tourists” are happy here and seem more willing to extend themselves to other “tourists” and local residents. I am touched and feel grateful to be here.

More Melaque

What a difference a few degrees make!

The weather has cooled only slightly, with highs now in the mid 80’s (instead of high 80’s), lows in the high 60’s (instead of the mid 70’s), and humidity in the 70’s (instead of the 80’s). In the morning and evening I can now feel a bit of a “chill” outside. I now just sweat instead of drip. I find that it changes my attitude tremendously. I can be out in the weather instead of confined to my air-conditioned room. One day there even was a bit of cloud cover which meant I felt comfortable wandering for nearly the full day! I have more energy; I am getting to know my neighbors – who had thought I was a recluse.

My favorite interaction this week was with kids at school. They had kicked a ball over a tall fence and into the street. Their Moms were near the fence, but the ball came near me. They saw me pass by and yelled “pelota, pelota” (ball, ball). I picked it up and hurled it back to them – thankfully clearing the fence. I loved seeing their bright faces and hearing their shouts of “thank you” as they went back to their game.

I’m learning and observing more about Melaque each day. Locals spend a lot of time and effort cleaning sidewalks and streets. This area is more about an extended living, or serving, space than a place for vehicles. These areas are swept, or raked if not paved, daily. They are doused with water to keep the dust down. Businesses along the beach even pile up sand to extend their serving area, raking it each day. I love the ingenuity! However, it makes for an interesting walk into town!

“You can’t buy happiness, but you can buy ice cream, which is about the same.”

Eating Out

This past week I enjoyed eating at three restaurants – and the food was fantastic. The first place was a coffee shop at the South end of the beach where my table was standing on a sand extension to the sidewalk. I ordered a savory crepe and enjoyed the most delicious breakfast in a long time. The greens, mushrooms and onion were grilled in a make-shift kitchen on the sidewalk and were marvelously spiced. It was so large I couldn’t finish it all – though cost only $3.50. Their organic, home roasted coffee was delicious as well. I ordered an iced latte and found the ice cubes were made of frozen coffee!

The other two were “upscale” places where I spent about $20 for wine, dinner and dessert, or appetizer. El Quetzal de Laura has a large space which spills out onto the sidewalk. They have cloth tablecloths and decorate with plants and quotes painted on the walls. I enjoyed Camarones al Ajo (Garlic Shrimp) with wine and an amazing bread pudding with ice cream for dessert! It was so good, that I returned the next night to try their Avocado Stuffed with Shrimp, and wine and bread pudding. The portion was so large I only ate one half of the avocado and took the other home – which was delicious the next day.

My favorite coffee shop has a “sister” restaurant, Palmera Negra, above it that serves dinner about three nights a week. I had been eyeing the fish tacos listed on their menu, so I went to check them out. However, their evening meal is Thai! I had to start with Coconut Shrimp – oh my, so delicious! But then I could not finish my main meal of Yellow Curry with Shrimp – which was superb, as well. So, half went home with me. My “mesero” (waiter) this night was a delightful boy, about ten years old, who spoke excellent English. He was very professional and efficient. He even brought my wine – not sure that would happen in the US. But kids here seem to be part of the family business and don’t seem to mind. At the coffee shop, a little girl, about four years old, was occasionally helping by carrying things back and forth, and at other times sitting quietly in a chair singing and looking adorable. At the other restaurant, a little girl, about three years old, was wandering around looking adorable while interacting with the clients. She was being watched by a young girl, about twelve years old. Another young boy, about fourteen years old, was bopping in and out on this bicycle and giving the waiters teenage grief. They all seemed to be part of the family. I enjoy seeing the many ways families strengthen their ties during their daily lives.

Vehicles

Last week I mentioned that less than half of the households in Melaque do not have a car or truck. But that doesn’t mean they are not racing around in some other type of vehicle. It is amazing to see the variety: lots of bikes and motorbikes, golf-carts, ATVs, and even some three-wheeled, for hire, rigs. I was surprised to see a significant number of fancy cars: BMW, Audi, and a Hummer. The ones I saw were driven equally by expats and locals.

Recycling

When I see the efforts Melaque makes to recycle, I so appreciate the guidance Bellingham Cohousing gets from Jaco! Although many times aesthetically pleasing, plastic recycling and trash collection seems to be low level and not strongly supported. Single use plastic is a staple with bags being bountifully used in all shopping and eating venues. I even saw plastic bags used to cover plates in a street-side taco stand to ease cleaning. Of course, not having purified running water naturally increases the use of bottled beverages, it seems recycling efforts are gear toward them. The most ingenious product I found was at my coffee shop. Their straws are 100% biodegradable and made out of agave fibers. It was pliable, yet sturdy. What I don’t see is composting, which I thought would be more prevalent.

Life in Melaque

Villa Estrella D’Mar

Taco Surf – great tacos for $16 MXP each

Recent statistics lists Melaque’s population at 7,569 with about 3% of the population as indigenous and almost 40% people coming from outside the state of Jalisco. I wonder if the large number of American and Canadians that come for three months in the winter are accounted for? I was surprised to read that close to 3.5% are illiterate, only 41% of the population are “economically active” and not all homes have electricity or bathrooms. However, more people have televisions than have piped water or refrigerators. It is reported that less than half of the households have a car or van, about 25% have computers, and only 19% have internet access. (source: www.en.mexico.pueblosamerica.com).

Well, if that is a statistical picture of Melaque, what are my impressions? Certainly, there is a very wide range of standards of living, with very few living how we live and most families finding very creative ways to make a living. There is an abundance of chickens, goats, dogs, and cats living with families and contributing to their quality of life – in one way or another. Many families are able to coexist with a family run business out of their home, or on a spot of beach. This includes stores, restaurants, artisan crafts, beauty services, to name a few. Most businesses have at least one person that speak pretty fluent English. There are very few people begging, like there are in bigger cities. People are mostly hanging out with families or friends, not too many loners. There appears to be some commercial fishing, so boats are out early in the morning. Evenings are busy with activity (eating, music, walking, chatting) all pouring out into the streets that double as living rooms. After 11 pm things generall seem calm and quiet. I feel quite safe here.

The best part of Melaque is THE BEACH!

With a gracefully curving beach stretching over two miles, there is room for everyone to be out enjoying it – especially around dusk. Groups of people sit under umbrellas, at the edge of their hotels, on the sand to watch – the almost always – gorgeous sunsets. I love watching the pelicans dive! The kids and young adult (mostly males) are using boogie boards to surf or play with the waves. Yes, there are plenty of places to eat and drink, which goes great with sunset watching – and you get to sit under an umbrella! In the pictures below look for the large abandoned hotel building in the background. In 1985 an earthquake did a lot of damage on Mexico’s Pacific coast, including this hotel site. It has been vacant since then providing an intereting backdrop to some of the beach life.

So, how do my days blend into the rhythm of this town? It has taken me a while to figure that out. I find walking the beach is a very necessary activity for me. So, I need to do that between 8 and 10 in the morning (until the sun gets too hot to enjoy). I walk again at dusk between a little after 6 pm to 10 pm. That means I need to get to bed early and carefully plan my coffee break. Similar to coffee time at Bellingham Cohousing, many ex-pats, including me, head to La Taza Negra, and the associated restaurant, Palmera Negra on a daily basis. Besides great coffee and great service, their open design allows for a breeze to keep cool and for musicians (both local and ex-pat) to add to the lovely ambiance.

La Taza Negra has decent Wi-Fi, and frequently I get to share my table with someone to talk with. I recently ran into Ken, who is just about to turn 90 and shared a bit of his very interesting life, including the quote below, which lifted my spirits!

If we want our species to survive, if we are to find meaning
In life, if we want to save the world and every sentient being
That inhabits it, love is the one and only answer.
Attributed to Albert Einstein

During the hottest parts of the day I get to stay in my little bungalow, with a fan and air conditioning to keep me cool. I get to work on projects, most of which involve organizing files on my computer. So the slow Wi-Fi certainly challenges my productivity! I am learning about iMovie and finding ways to work with the various video clips I’ve taken over the years. I was able to spend ample time understanding my estimated taxes after my financially chaotic 2019 year. What fun! I am slowly meeting the others that live in the Villas and enjoy swaping stories.

Adjusting to the Slow Life!

After a sweet layover in LA, I arrived in Manzanillo’s precious, colonial airport – and got to walk off into the warm day! There were only three planes on the tarmac! A long wait for immigrations and customs, so I got to chatting with the people in line. Lot’s of Canadians from BC and Ontario. I chatted up a couple from Portland on their first visit to Mexico traveling with their experienced friends. I launched into an anti-Trump reference during our conversation. They glanced at each other and he said “Well, some of us like Trump”. After I picked up my jaw, where I reflected that I don’t think I have spoken to anyone who admitted they “liked Trump” we exchanged a few short phrases. My last shot was “His policies are not fair” to which her reply was “Not every country is fair”. I was perplexed and would have loved to asked them more, with the aim to understand why “seemingly normal people” support Trump. After that exchange we respectfully accommodated each other.

I took a long taxi cab ride to my hotel, Luna del Mar, in Manzanillo. It was located on Playa Azul, where I have pleasant memories vacationing with my family as a kid. As you can see, I had a dramatic view from my hotel room. It also has a dramatic evening blue lighting!

The nights on the beach were the best! I have been struggling with being so lazy – it seems like all businesses are geared around me lounging, eating and drinking. I couldn’t get used to it.

An ice rink with a long line – 88 degrees!

I managed to avoid any mishaps during my first six months, even though I traveled along many cobbled streets. So, on my first morning of exploration I tripped over a raised section of the sidewalk – not a cobble in sight! So, instead of walking and bussing, I took a cab into town. Despite it’s dramatic harbor, the town looked shabby and unloved. I did find a lovely cafe (last photo) that raised my spirits!

La Taza Negra – excellent coffee, and live music bring in the American & Canadians

This place is a retired Canadian mecca – they come back year after year! I am sitting at La Taza Negra with all of them chatting around me. They come in couples, groups and gaggles – my solitariness is an oddity. I have seldom found a way to break in. Maybe my Pete sticker is scaring people off.

San Miguel de Allende – Revisited!

Wow – what a difference three months makes! SMA is less crowded, the ex-pats seem more Mexican, the weather is a tad cool and beautifully sunny!

Between two colds and low internet speed, I was unable to post this blog sooner than now. I am now in a hotel preparing to fly home on Thanksgiving Day! I take three flights – Guanajuato to Mexico City, Mexico City to Seattle, and Seattle to Bellingham – arriving about midnight. So, I will wrap this up quickly because I had so much fun in SMA the second time around! My friend Becky joined me and we found that we were good travel buddies! She speaks Spanish well and we enjoyed slow days and occasional eating!

This first group of photos were all taken from the wonderful house we had! The view was extraordinary, the home was large and lovingly decorated and felt warm and and nurturing!

Becky and I went to all five concerts of the San Miguel Jazz and Blues Festival and enjoyed it immensely! We bought the best seats and felt like we had a personal experience with the musicians!

After concert drink – we never guessed this was the Irish Coffee Becky ordered!

These were some other experiences we had . . .

And my personal favorite, doors, windows and buildings!

Cruz Family Visits Mexico!

What a joy to meet them, on two separate flights, early on the morning of October 25th! After checking into our Air BnB we quickly found our way to the Avenida Paseo de la Reforma, where Día de los Muertos was gearing up with local art. We took a bus tour and wandered around in awe of the Metropolitan church of Mexico. Just as dark was approaching, and the rain building, we found a great place for dinner and hojaldres de crema! It felt so great having Kyler’s directional acumen and height to assist us in staying together and finding our way!

Bike tour to Colonia Coyocán: On Saturday, the 26th, while the Catrina’s were parading down la Reforma, we Ubered to a parking lot for our first Air BnB Experience. We met our guide, selected our helmets and hopped on bikes. He led us around the Coyocan district, through a few churches and parks, where we enjoyed atole and churros. He lead us into the Coyocan Market to a busy taquería for a tostada lunch – all you can eat and drink (fruit waters). We could not have done any of this on our own – grateful to have the tour!

Our tour ended at the Frida Kahlo home/museum where our tickets included not having to stand in line. The ofrenda was the first major one we got to see and it was amazing. Wandering around her home, viewing her paintings, and hearing about her life, I felt close to her and marveled at her spirit! We finished the day by exploring the Coyocan market and enjoying my first taste of the mayo covered elote – yummier than expected!

The big parade day! While preparations were made for the parade along la Reforma, we headed to Chapultepec Castle! Me, on foot, and the rest on rented electric scooters and bikes.

This morning we had to send Kyler to the airport so he could return to his academic world. The rest of us had a 14 hour adventure tour to Grutas de Tolantongo! I had wanted to spend some time here during my trip, but found it was too unpredictable to feel safe. So, we found an Air BnB Experience and took it! The three-hour drive up and back gave us a chance to talk with our amazing guide. One of his dream jobs is to be the Mexican president. He practiced his English and we explored culture, customs and people of both countries. On the way up we stopped in Itzmiquilpan where Aarón led us through the market, full of smells, to a great lunch spot! Arriving at the Grutas, we first went to the caves and tunnels, then the river! On the other side of the resort were the pools where we lounged and watched the sun sink into the hills. All of this water comes in hot from inside the mountain. On our way home, again in Itzmquilpan, we stopped along the roadway for dinner – our favorites are now tacos pastor!

Puebla! A long, but leisurely day, put us in Puebla, at our wonderful hotel with a pool. Our first night we could hear music, so we followed it and found a group of all ages practicing, what seemed to be, indigenous music and dance. What a treat. We returned to our room to find a lovely “Buenas Noches” treat, followed by an excellent night swim in the warm waters of the roof top pool – ahh! We kept a slower pace filled with wandering, shopping, eating, swimming, and ofrenda hunting. We took a disappointing Dia de los Muertos tour – but it got us into the graveyard where Carrie and I hung out with the calavera Catrina. We tried mescál (Carrie is not a fan), and found some calavera art that we liked.