Real de Catorce is known for being one of the wealthiest silver towns during the 1800’s, then it went bust in early 1900, as a ceremonial grounds for the native populations, and for the peyote that grows in the area. It sits at an elevation of 8,950 feet, and, in November, temperatures at night are in the 30’s and during the day in the 50’s. It has been the scene for some movies because it still can be made to look like “old Mexico”.
We traveled a long way, noticing the elevation gain, and the changing landscape. The hour-long taxi drive from Matehuala to Real de Catorce was exciting. He sped over the cobblestone road and everything shook! Then we came to the 7,415 foot long Tunel de Ogarrio! It was cut into the rock mountain during the silver mining days. There is no reinforcement or buttresses anywhere.
Our taxi driver took us to the Hotel Rincón Mágico (magic corner) where we had booked our stay online. We picked this hotel because of the views and were not disappointed! We arrived on a beautiful day, the sun was radiant and the skies clear! My room had a fireplace, as advertised, but nothing provided to make a fire. There was no other heat, but the bed was warm and toasty!
We drove into town in the taxi, and this wonderful gentleman, Francisco, was guiding both drivers and walkers in a busy intersection with such ease and grace. Later we asked him where to get a beer. He directed us to a store (less expensive, he explained) where we grabbed our favorite can, sat in the sun and watched him work. He told the history of the town, the best adventures, the best hotels and restaurants. He asked our names and got all gushy at my name (Catalina) because that’s his wife’s name.
It was Thanksgiving! So we went to the “best restaurant in town” – so said Francisco – La Mesón de la Abundancia. We enjoyed our pizza and drinks: mezcal and sangría. We were connecting with family and friends, via text, all day long. We acknowledged how fortunate we felt having loving friends and family AND visiting such an amazing town.
This figure this is really just a reconnaissance trip for us. I am in San Luis Potosí for 18 days before going back to San Miguel de Allende for Christmas and New Years. My friend, Robin, who lives in San Miguel de Allende, was willing to join me for 10 day in SLP. We decided to scope out Real de Catorce because it seemed interesting and different. We originally wanted to take some excursions, she on horseback, and me riding on top of a willey. We wanted to check out the Puebla Fantasma (ghost town) that you can see up on the hill. There are some other journeys that look interesting: the Sacred Mountains of Wirikuta (the end of a Huihol pilgrimage from the Pacific Coast), an old deserted miner hacienda, an abandoned train station, and the sacred desert where many types of cactus grow, including the ceremonial peyote.
We had a great time wandering around the streets of the town. The elevation found us huffing and puffing, but the air was fresh and clean. Our second day was cloudy and cold, with the threat of rain always near. As it came time for our camioneta (van) ride home the fog descended and we lost sight of the surrounding hills. Our camioneta took us into Matehuala, but not to the bus station. So we hailed a cab from the street who got us to the station in time for our bus. Two plus hours on the bus and we made it to SLP. The last leg was a taxi ride to our Air BnB. We were bushed and this cab driver had a hard time understanding me. I felt no grace from him as he chastised me for not giving the correct information (which I already had given him). The streets of SLP were crowded with cars and lots of people milling around. It was loud and hopping! When we got home , before crashing, we had a scotch and watched the 2001 movie “The Mexican”, starring Brad Pitt and Julia Roberts. It was filmed in Read de Catorce!.
My México Travels 
Nice report and great photos, Kathleen/Catalina! Gorgeous area. My main recollection of the tunnel is that the road surface was slippery with moss, making me instantly nostalgic for the cobbles on the way up. Oh, and the exhaust fumes…but then bursting out into the clean, fresh air of the town.
For your next trip: there is a shorter entrance by the back road which follows the natural drainage into Real de Catorce, more steeply through little towns largely dedicated to peyote culture, both Huichol and tourist. It gives a very different sense of things from the ride up through the tunnel. Apparently there’s quite a bit of tension between traditional and modern cultures, with much of the local tourist trade being driven by access to peyote. I was mostly unaware of this, and was just (naively) following the map. Maybe your Willys tour addressed the issue in some way?
Thanks for the bright colors and vicarious explorations!
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Mark,
Thanks for adding your recollections! I imagine this was part of your motorcycle trip to Tierra del Fuego? I love the alternate route and will look for that on my next trip.
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Absolutely awesome!
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