Epilogue

How am I adjusting?

How are any of us adjusting? This is a whole new world for many of us. I was delighted to actually see my sister and nephew with my eyes, even if I could not hug them. It felt strange that she put latex gloves on to accept my gifts. I really enjoy “having coffee” every morning with Cohousers, using Zoom. I was surprised how easy it was to meditate with my Bellingham Insight Meditation sangha, also using Zoom. Oh, and I just signed up for a Spanish class at WWU – also on Zoom – yikes! The rest feels like I am still traveling as I find ways to get food and set up a routine.

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So, Now that I am home, which city truly was my favorite?

Caveat: These are my subjective opinions based on my experience and in no way constitutes fact. It was very difficult to narrow down my favorites and tomorrow I might be switching my choices!

Well, that depends on a number of factors . . .

A. Climate

I was surprised that climate impacted my ability enjoy the area. However, the heat and humidity kept me indoors instead of being outside. I was also surprised that shade, air movement (breeze, fan, air conditioning), and easy access to water went a long way to mitigate the impact of heat and humidity. So, if I were on a beachfront home, that had a pool, shade and A/C, I could enjoy the beautiful sunset, or sunrise, over the water and slow walks on the beach.

*Favorites:

San Cristóbal de las Casas, Chiapas, in March

It’s not surprising, coming from Bellingham, that I enjoy cool nights. So, San Cristóbal, at an elevation of 7,200, had cool (high 40’s to low 50’s) evenings and warm days (from the 70’s to the low 80’s). I thought this was perfect!

Oaxaca de Juarez, Oaxaca, in February

Oaxaca is only at an elevation of 5,000 but has very similar weather that I experienced in San Cristobal: cool nights and deliciously warm days. Assuming you have control of air flow and shade, this is perfect, too!

*Least Favorite:

Heroica Veracruz, Veracruz, in September

On the eastern coast of Mexico and during Mexico’s rainy season, I found Veracruz unbearably hot and muggy. The humidity was high and the temperatures ranged from the mid-70’s at night to the high 90’s during the day. I was lucky to have air conditioning, but found it difficult to wander outdoors very much. However, to sit in the breeze on the beach at sunset with a shrimp cocktail and a beer – that was the best!

Melaque/San Patricio, Jalisco, in January

On the West coast of Mexico, I found Melaque hot! Though temperatures ranged from the high 60’s at night and into the high 90’s during the day, it was the never ending heat that wore me out. I was lucky to have a fan, air conditioning and a pool, but if I was located on the beach and could sit in the shade while watch the water, it might have been perfect . . .

B. Cost:

The variability in cost and accessibility of lodging, food (both markets and dining out) was not huge, but it was significant. Choosing lodging though Air BnB provided an easy, consistent and safe process to secure great homes. However, in most cases, word of mouth, posters in a cafe, Craigslist, or numerous Facebook groups can line up great apartments at significantly savings. I found it curious that throughout my travels I found that wine was just as expensive as USA and it was difficult to find good, dry white wine.

*Favorites:

San Cristóbal de las Casas, Chiapas, in March

I had one of the best places to live in San Cristóbal, for about the least amount of money: $650 per month (through Air BnB). Food was cheap, no matter if I bought from the store, markets, or ate out.

Oaxaca de Juarez, Oaxaca, in February

Oaxaca also had reasonable Air BnB rates for lodging and had many options for food. They had lots of organic options, as well as small and large stores and markets.

*Least Favorite:

Ciudad de Mexico

Mexico City is a big city with big city prices. Of course, it also has a much wider variety in all things – but you pay for it.

San Miguel de Allende, Guanajuato

With so many ex-pats living in San Miguel the prices seem just a bit higher than the norm.

C. Culture:

My concept of culture includes stuff like: historical sites, churches, music, art, gardens, and an indigenous presence. I was amazed at the amount of reverence the Mexican people had, and government funds for, buildings and celebrations of the past. At first I was a bit annoyed that the past seemed more revered than the present, but I soon became a fan. All the places I visited had so much culture to enjoy.

*Favorites:

Guanajuato, Guanajuato in October

The Cervantino Festival is fantastic. The locations, the acts, the people, the beauty of the area, all contributed to my superlative experience. Held annually since the 70’s, this festival has grown to encompass such a wide variety of art, music, theater and dance. Held over 21 days, I was maxed out after 14 days. I was moved to tears more than once and so grateful for the experience.

San Cristóbal de las Casas, Chiapas

I was hampered by the need to social distance in San Cristobal, so I was not able to see all that this beautiful area had to offer. But it is recognizably different as soon as you wander around: so many more indigenous peoples and languages. The tourists are different: more families, young people, people with less money, and europeans. The area has a rich amount of history: from archaeological sites to Zapatista conflicts and benefits. There is a strong presence of the Mayan communities, who remained remote from a lot of control from outside sources. The picture above is the research library, established in the 50’s at Na Bolom, an amazing cultural center – a wonder to see and explore. They even have quite a number of bed and breakfast rooms from $35 to $70 per night.

D. Community:

My ability to find connections to community in the areas that I visited revolved around language programs that I enrolled in, and the active ex-pat communities. I did not participate in language programs in each location, so that impacted my ability to connect in those cities. Most cities had a vibrant ex-pat community who actively supports the economic, and social fabric of their adopted home. They volunteer in environmental projects, support local education, contribute to local businesses, art and music.

*Favorites:

Puebla de Zaragoza, Puebla

I loved my experience with the Spanish Institute of Puebla! Three hours of classroom instruction, three hours of conversation with native speakers (mainly students), and living with a Spanish speaking family really dropped me into regular Mexican life. Combine that with tours, on Wednesdays and Saturdays, that encouraged exploration of the area and fellowship with the other students, and it met all my needs and more! I had access to locals where we could have in depth conversations and develop strong connections.

San Miguel de Allende, Guanajuato

San Miguel has a very active ex-pat community. In the late 30’s and art institute was established which began to draw a lot of people from the US, and the attraction has been growing ever since. I was most impressed with the Unitarian Universalist Fellowship there. It reminded me of the UU church I grew up in during the 60’s and 70’s. What

Melaque/San Patricio, Jalisco

Melaque had the most unique ex-pat community that I encountered. Lots of Canadians, along with folks from the US, have been coming down for up to 30 years and staying between one and four months. They form a tight group, bring lots of donations, energy and money to support the local community, and sponsor lots of recreational and cultural events. I was fortunate to land into one of those groups based on where I was staying. They organized activities, potlucks, and even had a good bye party for me.

E. Location:

This applied to all the places I visited. I was happiest when I lived in an apartment that was close to the center of town, but no in the center. Being close allowed me to wander out whenever I heard something exciting going on, as there were always serendipitous events taking place in the center of town. Staying farther out of town meant the I, generally, did not get out more than once a day, and I felt I missed out on opportunities.

Bottom Line?

Where do I want to return? I could make a case to return to each of the cities that I visited, as they all were unique and delightful. However, my top three are listed below. I doubt I could ever pick up my life and move to Mexico, but I definitely plan to return often – probably for three to four months in the winter.

*Favorites:

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Oaxaca de Juarez, Oaxaca

San Cristóbal de las Casas, Chiapas

I really didn’t get a chance to explore San Cristóbal as much as I would have liked to. There are several trips that I wanted to take – I can’t wait to come back!

Guanajuato, Guanajuato

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Videos

With slow internet speed, I was not able to post any videos, so here are some of my favorites

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And, Finally, What Do I Miss the Most?

I Miss Sidewalks!

I loved how my paths in Mexico did not guarantee my safety, nor my comfort. I love that I got to take responsibility for my careful steps as I made choices about how to proceed. Where should I place my feet – over the dog poop? Does it look slippery? I got to appreciate the mysterious circumstances that impacted the sidewalk in front of me. I got to choose to be present each and every step, looking up periodically to witness surprises and confirm my location. And when I got to where I was going I could be grateful to have arrived safely.