What a difference a few degrees make!
The weather has cooled only slightly, with highs now in the mid 80’s (instead of high 80’s), lows in the high 60’s (instead of the mid 70’s), and humidity in the 70’s (instead of the 80’s). In the morning and evening I can now feel a bit of a “chill” outside. I now just sweat instead of drip. I find that it changes my attitude tremendously. I can be out in the weather instead of confined to my air-conditioned room. One day there even was a bit of cloud cover which meant I felt comfortable wandering for nearly the full day! I have more energy; I am getting to know my neighbors – who had thought I was a recluse.
My favorite interaction this week was with kids at school. They had kicked a ball over a tall fence and into the street. Their Moms were near the fence, but the ball came near me. They saw me pass by and yelled “pelota, pelota” (ball, ball). I picked it up and hurled it back to them – thankfully clearing the fence. I loved seeing their bright faces and hearing their shouts of “thank you” as they went back to their game.
I’m learning and observing more about Melaque each day. Locals spend a lot of time and effort cleaning sidewalks and streets. This area is more about an extended living, or serving, space than a place for vehicles. These areas are swept, or raked if not paved, daily. They are doused with water to keep the dust down. Businesses along the beach even pile up sand to extend their serving area, raking it each day. I love the ingenuity! However, it makes for an interesting walk into town!
“You can’t buy happiness, but you can buy ice cream, which is about the same.”
Eating Out
This past week I enjoyed eating at three restaurants – and the food was fantastic. The first place was a coffee shop at the South end of the beach where my table was standing on a sand extension to the sidewalk. I ordered a savory crepe and enjoyed the most delicious breakfast in a long time. The greens, mushrooms and onion were grilled in a make-shift kitchen on the sidewalk and were marvelously spiced. It was so large I couldn’t finish it all – though cost only $3.50. Their organic, home roasted coffee was delicious as well. I ordered an iced latte and found the ice cubes were made of frozen coffee!
The other two were “upscale” places where I spent about $20 for wine, dinner and dessert, or appetizer. El Quetzal de Laura has a large space which spills out onto the sidewalk. They have cloth tablecloths and decorate with plants and quotes painted on the walls. I enjoyed Camarones al Ajo (Garlic Shrimp) with wine and an amazing bread pudding with ice cream for dessert! It was so good, that I returned the next night to try their Avocado Stuffed with Shrimp, and wine and bread pudding. The portion was so large I only ate one half of the avocado and took the other home – which was delicious the next day.
My favorite coffee shop has a “sister” restaurant, Palmera Negra, above it that serves dinner about three nights a week. I had been eyeing the fish tacos listed on their menu, so I went to check them out. However, their evening meal is Thai! I had to start with Coconut Shrimp – oh my, so delicious! But then I could not finish my main meal of Yellow Curry with Shrimp – which was superb, as well. So, half went home with me. My “mesero” (waiter) this night was a delightful boy, about ten years old, who spoke excellent English. He was very professional and efficient. He even brought my wine – not sure that would happen in the US. But kids here seem to be part of the family business and don’t seem to mind. At the coffee shop, a little girl, about four years old, was occasionally helping by carrying things back and forth, and at other times sitting quietly in a chair singing and looking adorable. At the other restaurant, a little girl, about three years old, was wandering around looking adorable while interacting with the clients. She was being watched by a young girl, about twelve years old. Another young boy, about fourteen years old, was bopping in and out on this bicycle and giving the waiters teenage grief. They all seemed to be part of the family. I enjoy seeing the many ways families strengthen their ties during their daily lives.
Vehicles
Last week I mentioned that less than half of the households in Melaque do not have a car or truck. But that doesn’t mean they are not racing around in some other type of vehicle. It is amazing to see the variety: lots of bikes and motorbikes, golf-carts, ATVs, and even some three-wheeled, for hire, rigs. I was surprised to see a significant number of fancy cars: BMW, Audi, and a Hummer. The ones I saw were driven equally by expats and locals.
Recycling
When I see the efforts Melaque makes to recycle, I so appreciate the guidance Bellingham Cohousing gets from Jaco! Although many times aesthetically pleasing, plastic recycling and trash collection seems to be low level and not strongly supported. Single use plastic is a staple with bags being bountifully used in all shopping and eating venues. I even saw plastic bags used to cover plates in a street-side taco stand to ease cleaning. Of course, not having purified running water naturally increases the use of bottled beverages, it seems recycling efforts are gear toward them. The most ingenious product I found was at my coffee shop. Their straws are 100% biodegradable and made out of agave fibers. It was pliable, yet sturdy. What I don’t see is composting, which I thought would be more prevalent.
My México Travels 