Maybe Observer and Appreciator?

Last week I felt sad and uncomfortable to realize my role was that of tourist, with little opportunity to practice much higher level Spanish. This week I’m trying on a different role – that of observer, and appreciator. It still doesn’t feel ideal, but I can live with it, and it feels more true. Thanks to all of you who checked in with me to offer your support and perspective. I feel loved.

Doesn’t this look like “God” is talking? At least that is what I like to believe (substituting many different words for “God”)! It is kind of how I felt when my frustration and sadness cleared.

Unitarian Universalist Fellowship of San Miguel de Allende

One of the contributing factors that lead me to start my travels in San Miguel was that it is home to the UUFSMA – one of the only UU churches in Mexico. During my first visit I was stuck in my own stories of my past experiences in UU congregations. I was reminded that my parents had determined that they were Unitarian while attending a multi-denominational church in Guadalajara during the late 1950’s. They sent letters home announcing that they were officially leaving the Catholic Church – it was a big deal at the time. My second visit I was able to see more clearly the impressive Fellowship they have created. Though the people in the audience look like older, white ex-pats, their mission and programs demonstrate a strong commitment to the local community. Over 50% of their income goes back to supporting the SMA community. They support undocumented Mexican Nationals who have been deported from the US. They include Spanish in their services and, this week, the service was presented by a couple who promote bilingual theater in town. This was cheery news to me and I look forward to seeing their theater productions in November when I return to SMA. Today we heard from a young ex-pat who directs an amazing project titled Caminos de Agua, whose mission is to create access to clean water solution with communities at risk. I can truly see that many ex-pats in SMA actively engage to make all lives better here. I find hope here and will return!

Churches in San Miguel de Allende

I have been attracted to the many churches in town. I find the historic structures (several from the 16th century) to be captivating. The interiors are filled with exquisite art and I was quite moved by their beauty and significance (could be a remnant from my time in Catholic churches with my grandmother). I started taking pictures of them and became confused by which ones are which – there are about nine “churches” located in the center of SMA – each with similar domes, steeples and exteriors. Most of these represent the catholic faith – the historically dominant faith in Mexico. There are no cathedrals in town because there are no bishops! There two parroquias (parish churches) which control all the significant life events: baptism, marriage, death, etc. There are a number of templos (churches), designated as sacred buildings, and I found three capillas (chapels) which seem to be smaller.

The Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel is the most photographed building in SMA, and one of the most photographed buildings in Mexico. It is located in the center of town by the plaza, called El Jardín. It really is breathtaking and pops into view all over town. Yes, it really is pink and looks a little like Cinderella’s castle. Around 1880, a self-taught mestizo (of mixed race, Spanish and indigenous) architect, Don Zeferino Gutiérrez, was hired to build a new church façade. His inspiration came from the great Gothic European cathedrals—like Notre Dame. He had never been to Europe or seen their great churches, so he used postcards to guide his design. You can see the second photo shows how thin the facade was, because all he had was a one dimensional view.

I wish this photo was of higher quality so it could better illustrate how miraculous the event was! Families were lined up outside with their little girls in tow, each looking like they had just stepped out of a Cinderella movie. As you can see they had long and wide dresses of lace and crinoline. Their hair was curled and in up do’s, adorned with crystals and flowers. As soon as the door to the church opened, the excited little girls traipsed down the center isle while their family members sauntered up the side isles with their phones out. I do not know what all the fuss was about, but it was a delight to witness!

Published by KHNolan

Having retired in 2019, I attempted a year long - in two parts - adventure traveling around Mexico. However, COVID ended my trip early in April of 2020. Since then taking college classes in Spanish has kept me vaguely attached to my travels. I'm still focused on gained confidence and flow in speaking Spanish and not on becoming fluent. Though I don't believe I could leave my home, family and friends to live full time in Mexico, I am wondering if I might be able to split my time between home and Mexico. So, I am now back in Mexico working on that aim.

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